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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 2 Service & Maintenance

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Old 08-13-2017, 07:27 AM   #1
XJtoFZ
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Fuel Filter and Pump Replacement/Information

This seemed like the most reasonable spot for this so here goes. Sorry for the length and picture size.

There's a thread on the 998 site about cleaning the fuel filter but the picture links are broken. I had done this in the past and found a need to do it again so I took some pics for the community. Also, I figured out a way to replace the filter that was acceptable to me and learned some things that others might find interesting.

The reason that I had this apart was that my bike would start and idle perfectly. It would also run way up to 9k RPM at low throttle inputs. It would, however, severely fall on its face at more than ~20% throttle above 4k RPM. Some interesting nuggets about this: When it is acting up, if I kill the bike while rolling down the road and then start it back up by bump starting, the problem will go away momentarily. Further, the problem gets worse and worse the longer I ride. And, it relieves itself a bit when I fill up with fuel. I had strong thoughts that it was heat related with the coils being my main suspect and fuel vapor locking as secondary. The problem was getting worse and worse throughout the week.

This has not been my first issue with the bike and I've been through the coil ordeal. ECU and coils are 1 year/4k miles from brand new OEM (ECU lost 2 ignition drivers). Plugs were changed last week without correcting the problem. Infrared pyrometer showed 3 of 4 header temps about the same BUT swapping the coils between the hottest cylinder and the coldest showed no change in disparity. K&N air filter was cleaned at the same time ECU/coils were replaced last year. That leaves fuel or perhaps something like a throttle sensor. I have a set of 1300-mile throttle bodies for the bike but the pump/filter is much easier to get to so I looked at that first. I also cleaned the fuel filter as best I could last year while waiting for the ECU by blowing it out with compressed air.

Pictures of the whole fuel pump/filter deal can be readily found online so I didn't take any of those. Here's a good one I found on the internet:




There are 4 tabs around the housing that get pried away from the hooks. You have to be firm but gentle to get them apart. Firm because the plastic is stiff but gentle because you just want to go the minimum amount to release the hook. Here's what mine looked like right before I separated the bottom from the top.



Something to note on my pump is the orange staining at the base of the flange and all the brown particulates that are on the white cloth I was working on. That is rust. The opening in the bottom of the tank where the pump goes was rusty. There were rust particulates in the fuel that I drained from the tank. And, when I stuffed a white shop cloth into the tank and got my hand in there to wipe it around, it came it wet with gas and covered in rust particulates. So, there was a bit of rust in the tank. This made my issue make some sense once I thought about it. Throughout the week the fuel level was going down so the concentration of particulates was going up compared to the amount of fuel left in the tank. When the bike is running the pump is pulling vacuum on the inlet. When I kill it, the pump turns off and some of the particulates drop away from the filter which allows the bike to run OK at larger throttle inputs until the pump draws enough particulates into the filter where it chokes the fuel flow.

This is the inside of the lower housing:



Here's the filter:



It may be hard to see but there are rust bits still trapped in the gauze.

I pushed the fuel pump out of the upper housing and here's what it looks like (the upper housing, that is...fuel pump pics to come):



The thing at 12 o'clock in the pic above is a pressure relief valve:



There is an o-ringed nipple at the top of the housing next to the opening for the electrical plug. This is where pressurized fuel leaves the pump and flows into the plastic housing. The pump sucks fuel in at the bottom:



and pumps out the center of the other end.



The plastic housing is not solid and there is some sort of filter media between the inside wall and the outside wall. That is why it gets dark about 25% of the way down in the picture. Here's the best shot I could get of the filter media (I think this is taken through the empty pressure relief port):



This picture is the main reason for this post. This is the post-pump filter that so many have questioned the lack of. Sadly, it is in no way serviceable as the housing is sonic-welded together at the top.

Anyway, before I took this all apart I had looked for a replacement sock filter. I knew that the factory didn't offer it so I looked online at universal options. I'm sure others here have seen the ebay offers for Kemso FZ1 fuel pump kit that comes with filters and such.

I bought this $30 kit for the filters and figured I might replace the pump or at least I'd have a spare on hand. [Edit: Do not buy this kit. See the link below for the correct kit]



Well, the pump absolutely does NOT fit a Gen 2 FZ1. [Edit: Correct kit was found, see the PS at the end]



On to the filter. After taking a deep breath knowing there was no going back I cut the gauze away from the filter housing ( I had unsuccessfully tried to pry it off).



As it turns out, the white part snaps into the blue part and I was just being too gentle for fear of breaking the plastic. So, the flange on the blue part was just a millimeter or so larger than the port on 2 of the filters that were included in the kit. I chose the offset filter that's in the center of the kit picture because 1. the port was metal with a couple barbs that would help keep it on and 2. the offset would help it fit in the lower housing better. There are electrical connectors on either side of the filter mount and it backs right up against the relief valve. 5 minutes with a file while fit-checking it over and over and I had reduce the flange OD enough (I also filed off the little protruding tab). This allowed the filter to press on firmly and stay in place. [Edit: The proper kit comes with a new filter that looks to be a direct fit. See PS, below]



After snapping the filter mount back onto the upper housing I found I had to fold it over in order to get the lower pump housing on. [Edit: The proper kit comes with a new filter that looks to be a direct fit. See PS, below]



Then, it was a matter of snapping the housings back together and plugging the pump/gauge connectors back in. After re-assembling the tank and the rest of the bike I put a couple fresh gallons of 93 octane. Bike runs like a scalded ape now. Even though the pump does not fit, the $30 for the fuel sock was still reasonable for me to get this performance bike. Thanks for making it this far. I hope you found it useful.

AP

P.S. Arrgghhh! While looking for a used pump to dissect (rather than filters) I found this. My internet-fu was terrible this week. I think that much of this is still relevant/interesting so I'm leaving it up.

Last edited by XJtoFZ; 08-14-2017 at 06:48 PM. Reason: Poor search skills...found the correct kit
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Old 08-13-2017, 08:04 AM   #2
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You do realize that PhotoBucket doesn't allow hot linking of pics? None of yours are visible..
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:13 PM   #3
XJtoFZ
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Nope. Didn't know that. I have posted pictures from there in the past that worked. Will figure out how to fix.

And, it worked perfectly during preview of post.
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Old 08-14-2017, 06:42 PM   #4
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Uploaded pics to FZ1OA and fixed the links. I removed a few that are unnecessary due to newfound availability of direct-fit filter.
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Old 08-14-2017, 07:11 PM   #5
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As my bike is now 10 years old, I am sure the fuel filter is a mess. This is great info!

Reminds me of my old TL1000S. A common mod for that bike was to replace a crapped out OEM fuel pump with an Airtex model meant for an '89 Dodge Caravan. It sounded like a coffee grinder at startup, but worked great, cost $50 instead of $400 for a factory replacement.
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Old 08-15-2017, 06:52 AM   #6
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Thanks for all your work on this. Very good information!
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Old 08-15-2017, 10:24 AM   #7
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It would be great to remove/bypass the built in fuel filter, and just put an inline canister 11 micron filter outside the tank at my "Blind Spot kinky fuel line mod" outside the tank rubber fuel line location, making the fuel filter filter an easily serviceable item. I have this type of setup on my FI dirt bike, and it works great.

So there is the pump intake sock for course filtering to protect the pump, and it looks like the "gauze in the filter housing" is the fine filter? If so, that is a pretty craptastic OEM situation. It is a wonder our injectors don't all plug up. Am I seeing this right? Would like to mod it to remove the factory filter and just run an easily serviceable outside canister job if I can.
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Get your FI maps right here:

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Akra full exhaust mindless stationary rev out Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5UNYBqHd7M
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Old 08-15-2017, 08:29 PM   #8
XJtoFZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duken4evr View Post
It would be great to remove/bypass the built in fuel filter, and just put an inline canister 11 micron filter outside the tank at my "Blind Spot kinky fuel line mod" outside the tank rubber fuel line location, making the fuel filter filter an easily serviceable item. I have this type of setup on my FI dirt bike, and it works great.

So there is the pump intake sock for course filtering to protect the pump, and it looks like the "gauze in the filter housing" is the fine filter? If so, that is a pretty craptastic OEM situation. It is a wonder our injectors don't all plug up. Am I seeing this right? Would like to mod it to remove the factory filter and just run an easily serviceable outside canister job if I can.
What I called gauze is the inlet filter. It is like a fabric. The filter media inside the plastic housing looks to be rigid...like corrugated metal of some sort. I bought a broken pump from eBay to see if it's possible to remove. I am not optimistic, though. I mean, I will definitely remove it...I'm not optimistic that it can be put back together in a functional way to allow for filtering outside of the tank.

Thanks everyone!

AP
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Old 08-16-2017, 09:47 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duken4evr View Post
It would be great to remove/bypass the built in fuel filter, and just put an inline canister 11 micron filter outside the tank at my "Blind Spot kinky fuel line mod" outside the tank rubber fuel line location, making the fuel filter filter an easily serviceable item. I have this type of setup on my FI dirt bike, and it works great.

So there is the pump intake sock for course filtering to protect the pump, and it looks like the "gauze in the filter housing" is the fine filter? If so, that is a pretty craptastic OEM situation. It is a wonder our injectors don't all plug up. Am I seeing this right? Would like to mod it to remove the factory filter and just run an easily serviceable outside canister job if I can.
I think the filter is needed on the inlet side to protect the pump, which has to provide considerable pressure to the manifold, and anything that gets thru is not going to be big enough to clog an injector.
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Old 08-17-2017, 06:43 PM   #10
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Good news for me; some good news and bad news for you.

So, I bought a used and broken FZ1 pump assembly and the 2nd Kemso kit from ebay.

Good news for me is that the broken pump.looks very, very new but the outlet nipple is broken off from the bottom of the lower housing (where the fuel hose fitting goes) . The rest of the pump has a faint smell of gasoline but is otherwise almost indistinguishable from a new pump out of the box. The upper half of the pump assembly is the pump itself, the fuel level sensor, pressure relief valve, and inlet and outlet filters. The lower half has the electrical connector and fuel feed-throughs. The important parts are so new that I can't bring myself to cut it open. Rather, I will replace what's currently in my bike after swapping the lower housing and cut open my original one.

Now for the news that may help you. The good news is that the Kemso pump matches the OE pump very well. The OE filter fits, it fits in the OE housing correctly, and the OE electrical connector fits. So, if you need a pump there appears to be an aftermarket solution (long term quality is to be determined).


Unfortunately, what doesn't fit is the inlet filter. It fits onto the bottom of the pump firmly but only one of the 3 retention tabs lines up with a corresponding shark fin nub. The filter presses on hard enough to the bottom of the pump that you could probably cut off the 2 tabs that don't line up and you'd probably be ok. If I hadn't lucked out with the broken pump i would be doing just that. As it is, though, I'll just put it on the shelf as an emergency backup.

I'll post pics once I cut apart the original housing and find a free hosting site.

Hope this helps,
AP
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Old 08-25-2017, 12:48 PM   #11
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Thanks for the documentation. Looks like a pain in ass in comparison to gen 1 which had standalone easy access. I saw another link in this site for a drop in fuel pump replacement. It appears to have some filter attached to it.
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Old 08-26-2017, 08:55 AM   #12
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new fuel pump

http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthr...ight=fuel+pump

This is 1 I found a while ago
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:21 PM   #13
XJtoFZ
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So, last week I put my eBay replacement fuel pump in. I then dissected the original pump housing. The post-pump filter media is pleated paper. So, this bike does have a real fuel filter but it is not reasonably replaceable.

I took pics but need to find a place to host them. Will update when I do.
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Old 10-03-2017, 07:22 PM   #14
XJtoFZ
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So, last week I put my eBay replacement fuel pump in. I then dissected the original pump housing. The post-pump filter media is pleated paper. So, this bike does have a real fuel filter but it is not reasonably replaceable.

I took pics but need to find a place to host them. Will update when I do.
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Old 10-08-2017, 07:19 AM   #15
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Pics

I cut the top of the pump housing off where the lid is ultrasonic welded to the base.



I then cut the lower housing just below where the filter media ends (see earlier pic). I was then able to push the inner housing out.



And, here it is out of the housing. Pleated paper filter media.



AP
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Old 11-14-2017, 08:26 AM   #16
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It would be cool to be able to remove the post pump pleated filtering media inside the tank altogether and run an in line filter outside of the tank for easy/peasy servicing.

My bike is 11 years old, seems to run fine, but I know that in tank pleated paper post pump filter looks like Hell at this point. My dirt bike is a 2010 and runs it's fuel filter after the pump inside the tank on the pressurized feed line to the injector. This is what that filter looked like after 200 hours of run time. Eww. On the dirt bike, I was already running an 11 micron external filter in line as the bike (2010 Husaberg FE450) is known to clog it's injector as the in tank filter shown below is not fine enough to fully protect the injector. Have run mine since new with the additional external filter and have had no injector problems with it.

Our FZ1s do not commonly seem to have clogged injector issues, but having a filthy filter in the system is not helping. Thanks for posting this info - good food for thought.
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With experience of a tortured youth, we turn up the music and go in search of the truth.

Wise man said - "Don't go bagger too soon".


Get your FI maps right here:

http://www.mediafire.com/download/nr...1_Map_Pack.zip

Akra full exhaust mindless stationary rev out Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5UNYBqHd7M
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