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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 09-17-2018, 08:01 PM   #1
firefly
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Chain length with a 47 rear sprocket

I am finally replacing the chain and want to use a 47 rear sprocket & leave the front stock size, should I cut the chain with 3 extra links to compensate for the additional 3 teeth of the sprocket?

Thanks
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:08 PM   #2
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bump
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:19 PM   #3
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Bumping after 7 minutes?

Remember most of our peeps are in the east. It’s 11pm.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:44 PM   #4
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Sorry about that, My chain is almost going to break & I need to use the bike tomorrow for work so I am replacing it now I already broke the chain on the bike, was hoping to get a quick answer so I can cut the new chain & instal it. by the time I finish its going to be 1:00 am here.
now I know the bumping rules here, never bumped before.
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Old 09-17-2018, 08:46 PM   #5
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No worries. There’s no rules. Just seemed odd with no context.

Maybe try searching. I’m not sure many are awake currently to answer such a specific question.
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Old 09-17-2018, 09:05 PM   #6
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Yes, you will need a longer chain with the 47-tooth rear and the stock front sprocket.

http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/4...tallation.html

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Old 09-17-2018, 09:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat Glenn View Post
Yes, you will need a longer chain with the 47-tooth rear and the stock front sprocket.

http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/4...tallation.html

Pat
how many links longer? to keep the wheelbase the same.
Thanks
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Old 09-17-2018, 10:50 PM   #8
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Why not run the chain through and line it up with the wheel in the middle of the travel of adjustment (not too far forward or back). That will give you a pretty good idea. You can mark where the links line up with a marker and then cut the right length.
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Old 09-17-2018, 11:24 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dicko View Post
Why not run the chain through and line it up with the wheel in the middle of the travel of adjustment (not too far forward or back). That will give you a pretty good idea. You can mark where the links line up with a marker and then cut the right length.
That's what I am planning to do now but first I have a lot of cleaning to do, I wish I pressure washed the swingarm before diving into this, the wheel hasn't been cleaned for at least two years, good I have a gallon of WD-40 & rags.
this is my first time riveting a chain.

Thanks
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Old 09-18-2018, 12:11 AM   #10
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I ran the 17/47 for awhile with 124 links. Www.gearingcommander.com can help with any questions on configurations.
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Old 09-18-2018, 01:12 AM   #11
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How many links you add just depends on where you want the final tire position to be. I like a shorter wheelbase. A 16/47 clears on the gen 2 with stock chain, and 17/47 just baaaaarely makes the tire touch the swing arm.

An extra link or two should be sufficient. For confidence when ordering, get 3 links above stock. It’s much easier to cut links off, than to run 2 master links. Use the rivet type master link ofc.
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Old 09-18-2018, 02:34 AM   #12
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Thanks, everyone, I cleaned the wheel, lubed the bearings, installed the 47 sprocket than goofed around & decided to finish the job in daylight, will aim just before the middle to get a smaller wheelbase for more agility, the swingarm is really dirty so I'll need to clean it with a degreaser and water, I'll check for any play before I put the wheel on.
unfortunately, the new front sprocket did not arrive from partshark so I'll replace it later in the wkend. Pat's site is extremely helpful for getting the job done right, your input was great too.

Thanks again
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Old 09-18-2018, 12:59 PM   #13
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I def ran 17-47 on a stock chain. Could not get 17/48 and using 17/49 im at 124.

At 17/47 on 120(I believe) I was nearly or all the adjusted in, and it felt good. TBH a little unstable/more sketchy in the corners with the front dropped 12mm. Just a head's up
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Old 09-18-2018, 12:59 PM   #14
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also...

www.gearingcommander.com
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Old 09-19-2018, 05:03 AM   #15
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My progress & a few more questions.
Braking the old chain was not hard using a cheap tool after I grided the head of the pins, removed the old chain, took the rear wheel off & installed the new 47 T sprocket, lubed the bearings and installed the wheel again, set the adjusting bolt all the way in, put the new chain to measure what is needed, zip tied the link I am taking off to shorten the chain. Now the chain is the right size put it on both sprockets with the loose ends on the rear sprocket, lubed the master link and pressed it in, now all I need is to rivet it.

My questions:
1- The tool comes with a rounded end pin and a ball bearing end thing which one should I use to flare the pins?
2- Do I set the chain slack with the rear brake arm installed or install the brake arm after I set the chain slack & tighten the axle nut?

Thanks for all the help.
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:26 AM   #16
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This is what I used as a guide when changing my chain. Uses a cheap chain tool. Shows what goes where.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yj4sKsguvU

I'm not sure what the rear brake arm (assuming you mean the pedal) has to do with it. Can you elaborate?
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:29 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okrider View Post
This is what I used as a guide when changing my chain. Uses a cheap chain tool. Shows what goes where.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Yj4sKsguvU

I'm not sure what the rear brake arm (assuming you mean the pedal) has to do with it. Can you elaborate?
The brake arm that attaches to the bottom of the caliper, not the brake pedal.
I think I should attach the brake arm but not tighten its bolts on both ends until I tighten the axle nut
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Old 09-19-2018, 06:40 AM   #18
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I don't have a gen1 so you may want someone else's input on that. As long as the wheel can move back and forth to adjust slack with the bolt installed, I don't see a problem with having it installed. Or you can wait to install it once you've set slack. Doubt it'll affect anything.
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:42 AM   #19
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Riveted the chain but not sure it was done correctly the tool with the ball bearing head ended up with a crushed ball, the hardest thing was to set the chain slack.
the pins don't look like they were flared, if you don't hear from me in a few days then you know what happened
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Old 09-19-2018, 11:57 AM   #20
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Do you have a caliper to confirm that the pins flared? Also make sure you didn't accidentally end up pushing the pin out when trying to flare it. Look at the wheel side of the chain to make sure the pin is still flush with the plate.
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