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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance > Gen 1 Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance

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Old 04-03-2018, 03:33 PM   #1
dan13
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Carb syncing

Would it be possible to sync 4 carbs 2 at a time? (missing 2 hoses ) Also what do the restrictors that go in the hose ends do. (missing all 4 )
Motion pro sync pro
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:10 PM   #2
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I would imagine not because while you can do the first part (e.g. syncing 1 & 2 to each other and then 3 & 4 to each other) you would need a vacuum reading from each carb to be able to sync the pairs (1&2 and 3&4) to one another. I may be entirely wrong and someone far more technically proficient will be along shortly with more help lol.

You will need the restrictors however or your gauge readings will be impossible to see as the needles will be bouncing all over the place.
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Last edited by ajbigwood; 04-03-2018 at 04:13 PM. Reason: Thought about it again.
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Old 04-03-2018, 04:30 PM   #3
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I'm pretty sure if 1&2 are synced and 3&4 are synced to 1&2 that you should be able to cap off 1&4 and sync 2&3 and be able to come out with all 4 synced.

Won't hurt to try but ya you need the restrictors
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Old 04-03-2018, 05:03 PM   #4
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Go get two more hoses.
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Old 04-03-2018, 05:19 PM   #5
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You can do a passable job by syncing 1&2 then 3&4, and finally 2&3. Then repeat. As mentioned above, you really should try to do all 4 at once because the better the sync, the less buzzing on the highway.
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:51 PM   #6
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Go get two more hoses.
Yeah. The restrictors are the main thing. Now that I know I have to have those.
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Old 04-03-2018, 07:57 PM   #7
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You can do a passable job by syncing 1&2 then 3&4, and finally 2&3. Then repeat. As mentioned above, you really should try to do all 4 at once because the better the sync, the less buzzing on the highway.
Yes my buzz has gotten pretty bad. I was just gonna let a local shop do it but nobody wants my business. I heard every thing from we don't work on Yamaha to we don't work on anything over10 years old.
Anyway I guess ill have to order some restrictors.
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Old 05-21-2018, 04:41 PM   #8
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Ok I got restrictors and new hose.

But as usual I can't make anything work right.
I haven't even made it past calibrating the tool before something goes wrong.
I put in all the restrictors , hooked the four lines to the calibration tool. Capped off the other hole. Turned all the adjustment screws all the way out on the motion pro,As soon as I start hooking the short hose to the vacuum port on the bike it started sucking the blue fluid up through the hose.
Am I supposed to remove all 4 of the vacuum caps off the bike before I do this?
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:24 PM   #9
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So after I tried a few different things I buttoned everything back up and put away the tools. Then kicked back and started googling.
I found something that may be my problem. I'll try again tomorrow.

The instructions say to back the adjustment screws all the way out,which I did. Turns out according to this one guy on this one forum that I can't remember the name of, if you back them all the way out the o ring goes into the threads therefore creating a complete seal. Then the channels that don't have a complete seal get the full force of the vacuum and all the juice sucks out.
The fix is to back them all the way out then turn them back in a little.

Sound feasible?
Guess I'll find out tomorrow.
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Old 05-23-2018, 06:15 PM   #10
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No idea sorry. Let us know tho i have to do mine soon.
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Old 06-04-2018, 08:37 PM   #11
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Could always make a new gauge. I made this last year, filled each bottle a quarter full with automatic transmission fluid, blew air into one bottle to get rid of air in connecting lines. each bottle is connected to the other with a 4 way hose (like 1/8th diameter? Smaller the diameter, the more restricted the flow and thus more accurate the measurement, to a point) that touches the bottom, while 4 separate lines (i wanna say 1/4 inch diameter?) attached to the airtight plugs on the top. fiddled with screws until fluid quite getting sucked from one bottle into the other.

Cost me a 6 pack in cheap beer, 6' of clear tubing, 4 rubber plugs, 4 hose clamps (to attach the lines to intakes), and some hotmelt.

What i did was start the bike, set the idle at about 1500-1600 (so it wouldn't stall) and made adjustments, making sure idle stayed at 1500 if it changed after being adjusted. You know you have equal vacuum when fluid stops transferring from one bottle to the other, regardless of level. Number the bottles for each cylinder, and if a bottle goes empty and air gets in the siphon line, just open the screw for the empty bottle, and it'll suck fluid back thru the lines again. No need to start and stop your bike (like i did, killing the battery and having to wait 3 hours for a charger). Oh, don't use water, if water creeps into the cylinder lines that's bad. ATF fluid however seems harmless if it gets sucked into the engine.

Quick edit, you can always do a poor mans carb sync by pulling the carb out, sticking a 1/8th drill bit into the throttle plate of carb 2 (the one with the idle screw attached, second from left) and using a second 1/8th bit to adjust the other 3 carbs. Get the drill bits so that the number 2 plate and the other 3 plates hang onto both bits and they'll be 'close enough' as it were.

Last edited by Chik'Tikka; 06-04-2018 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 06-05-2018, 02:00 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dan13 View Post
So after I tried a few different things I buttoned everything back up and put away the tools. Then kicked back and started googling.
I found something that may be my problem. I'll try again tomorrow.

The instructions say to back the adjustment screws all the way out,which I did. Turns out according to this one guy on this one forum that I can't remember the name of, if you back them all the way out the o ring goes into the threads therefore creating a complete seal. Then the channels that don't have a complete seal get the full force of the vacuum and all the juice sucks out.
The fix is to back them all the way out then turn them back in a little.

Sound feasible?
Guess I'll find out tomorrow.


Something doesn't sound right.

There are idle adjustment screws on the bottom of each carb. These have an O Ring. These have nothing to do with a carb sync. Leave these alone.


All four vacuum caps need to be off and the 4 hoses with restrictors need to be attached to your sync tool.

There are three adjustment screws for carb syncing that you get to with a very long screw driver coming from the TOP and seat side of the carbs. There are NO O rings involved. These screws simply move the throttle up and down a very, very slight bit up and down for each carb in the carb bank.

DO NOT BACK THESE ALL THE WAY OUT. Just a little bit goes a long way. You're probably close to sync the way they are.

Screw A is between Carb 1 and 2, Screw B is between carbs 2 and 3, and Screw C is between carbs 3 and 4.

Get a very strong light - these screw are a pain to see.

Screw A balances carbs 1 and 2. Rev to 5k, adjust until they are close, and Stop. Then go to Screw C, which balances carbs 3 and 4. Rev to 5 k, adjust until they are close, and Stop Then go to the middle screw B. It balances Carbs 1 and 2 with carbs 3 and 4. Rev to 5k, adjust until they are close, and STOP. You'll probably notice 1 and 2 as well as 3 and 4 might have drifted apart. REPEAT this entire process until they are all close.
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Old 06-05-2018, 05:03 PM   #13
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Another option for carb syncing is to build a simple homemade 4-way differential manometer like in this old thread:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54378
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Old 06-09-2018, 08:14 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
Another option for carb syncing is to build a simple homemade 4-way differential manometer like in this old thread:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54378
Wow, that looks a lot neater than my 4 bottles... Same function tho, i don't mind. I didn't need restricters with mine though, the sheer volume of fluid in the bottles was enough to get accurate readings.
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:07 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
Another option for carb syncing is to build a simple homemade 4-way differential manometer like in this old thread:

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54378
Hey i read that whole thread. I gunna swingout tomorrow and start picking up supplys. Looks like a good simple tool. Got a few questions tho. Does the length of each tube going to the 4way t need to be the same length? Will that throw off the readings if there not the same? Thinking about getting 2 3ways tees, and 2 elbow fittings more points of failure but ill be able to source it locally tomorrow. I can also make the lines the exact length that way. Dont think ill have any issues but ive never made ome before.
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Old 06-11-2018, 04:47 AM   #16
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The length of the lines doesn't matter.

If you read that entire thread, a key takeaway is NO LEAKS!
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