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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance

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Old 11-04-2016, 07:29 AM   #21
Pier23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rswebscan View Post
Just a tad

Hey, to my credit, I have THOUGHT about the brake fluid every year when I got the bike out of storage, but the rear fluid looked OK...

And I don't have the third arm that is useful when one needs to "loosen, squeeze, tighten, release".


There in fact may be a simpler system than that for flushing brake fluid, I just havent discovered it.

Techs have gizmos that do in five mins what takes me 40, so I tend to wait on stuff to get done when it is in the shop anyway.

Clearly, THIS approach has obvious flaws....
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Old 11-04-2016, 07:34 AM   #22
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Speedbleeders are worth their weight in gold.

and their bleed bags are worth even more - no mess
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Old 11-04-2016, 06:10 PM   #23
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Speedbleeders are worth their weight in gold.

and their bleed bags are worth even more - no mess

Ohhh?????

Unaware of speedbleeders. How do they work? Where do I find them?
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Old 11-04-2016, 09:23 PM   #24
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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=speedbleeders
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Old 11-05-2016, 08:04 PM   #25
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I have bled brakes with two hands for more than 30 years.

Speed bleeders help at an added, unnecessary expense. Mity vac works, but again more expense. I have a mity vac but I rarely use it. Bleeding the brakes by hand is just too easy and simple.
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Old 11-06-2016, 02:15 AM   #26
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You can run a lot of fluid through pretty fast with a Mityvac. Should be able to get one for $30~$40.

I bleed by hand along with using the Mityvac.
My theory is that by pushing the piston it's full travel a few times it should help clean the piston / bore in the master cylinder.

Looking at my service records (because of this thread) I realized I was past due for a fluid change.
I changed and flushed the brake fluid yesterday.

Now I've noticed the coolant is past due too....
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:20 AM   #27
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Do I have the process correct, in that the brake lever and the bleeding nipple are both on the right side of the bike so one squeezes with the left hand whilr val ing with the right?

It appears, due to proximity, that the rear brake is easier...???
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Old 11-06-2016, 07:41 AM   #28
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Yes, the brake lever is on the right side. (Sorry - couldn't resist )

You have two calipers on the front, so you need to flush and bleed BOTH.

Nipple closed. Pull brake level. Open and close the nipple. Release brake level. Repeat.

Put a hose and over the nipple to keep the fluid away from the bike - brake fluid is nasty stuff and will paint rather quickly.
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Old 11-06-2016, 09:41 AM   #29
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Brake fluid will also kill the brake pads if it gets on them.
Remember you have two bleeders on the rear caliper.
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Old 11-06-2016, 04:08 PM   #30
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Yes, the brake lever is on the right side. (Sorry - couldn't resist )

You have two calipers on the front, so you need to flush and bleed BOTH.

Nipple closed. Pull brake level. Open and close the nipple. Release brake level. Repeat.

Put a hose and over the nipple to keep the fluid away from the bike - brake fluid is nasty stuff and will paint rather quickly.

Ok...not wishing to appear as dense as I am...how does one bleed the nipples on the LEFT side when the front lever and back pedal are on the right?

Assume motorcycle- bored wife not available....
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Old 11-06-2016, 06:17 PM   #31
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Reach..
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Old 11-07-2016, 07:56 AM   #32
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speedbleeders are very inexpensive and replace the standard zerks. You slightly loosen the speedbleeder, bleed out the air, re-tighten and done. Not sure why anyone would think they are an unnecessary expense unless they love the pain of always having to ask for help.

They also have bags to catch the fluid during the bleeding process. Zero mess.

Not sure why all zerks aren't designed that way from the factory. Maybe it's too easy

http://speedbleeder.com/
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:08 AM   #33
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The ballbearings in my speedbleeders corroded and stopped working. All of them. Two bikes.
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Old 11-07-2016, 11:45 AM   #34
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That is odd. Did you use the rubber caps? Mine have been working for many years.....
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:47 PM   #35
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Yes.
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Old 01-10-2019, 07:24 PM   #36
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speedbleeder

Quote:
Originally Posted by rswebscan View Post
speedbleeders are very inexpensive and replace the standard zerks. You slightly loosen the speedbleeder, bleed out the air, re-tighten and done. Not sure why anyone would think they are an unnecessary expense unless they love the pain of always having to ask for help.

They also have bags to catch the fluid during the bleeding process. Zero mess.

Not sure why all zerks aren't designed that way from the factory. Maybe it's too easy

http://speedbleeder.com/
Hi,
I just plan to change my brake fluid first time but have no idea how to do it.As I read the thread, this speedbleeder makes it easy or what.I checked web site but did not find very informative.So, pls help me what I ve to do.
thx.
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Old 01-10-2019, 10:01 PM   #37
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Hi,
I just plan to change my brake fluid first time but have no idea how to do it.As I read the thread, this speedbleeder makes it easy or what.I checked web site but did not find very informative.So, pls help me what I ve to do.
thx.
Removing the front fairing makes the job easier if you have to bleed them solo. Also will make sure you don’t drip brake fluid on your paint, brake fluid is very harmful to paint.

Remove reservoir cap, suck out old fluid with basting syringe(turkey baster)
Crack open bleeders, and let old fluid run out, pump the lever a couple times if you get tired of waiting.
Refill reservoir with new fluid, let drain down to bleeders
Tighten bleeders and pump brake lever a few times.
Refill with fluid to 3/4 full
Pump brakes a few times then hold brake lever in, crack open one bleeder until the lever squeezes into the handlebar, retighten bleeder before releasing handlebar. Repeat this step as long as air bubbles keep coming out of the bleeder. Once all air has been removed you can move to the other side, where you’ll do the same thing.
Check the reservoir every 3-4 bleeds, refill as needed.
Once all air has been bled out, use basting syringe to remove fluid to proper level.

Back brakes are the same thing, only slightly easier.
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Old 01-11-2019, 08:56 AM   #38
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OEM or aftermarket levers?
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Old 01-11-2019, 12:17 PM   #39
Dean Dinnetz
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Just to make sure all the air is out of the brake lines, i secure the brake lever/pedal as tight as it will travel, overnight with a tie wrap. That will cause any remaining air to travel to the top of the reservoir. Next morning, remove said tie wrap. Check for any leaks in the bleeder areas, and you are good to go.

You really should change the brake fluid on a bike every year. Fluid is cheap, and the change is very easy to do, by yourself, even without a speed bleeder. Never have used one, as bike brakes, are so easy to bleed.

Putting in new front brake lines can take more time, than just changing out brake fluid, in existing lines. I changed out the front brake lines on my 2001 FZ1 awhile back. Went from Kevlar that i did not like, to stainless steel brake lines, made in the U.K., by Goodridge. Empty of fluid new brake lines, so that took a little awhile longer, but easy to do. And i did the overnight brake lever gig, when i was finished.

Just some info for you.

Dean

P.S. Same thing happened to my pal Ron about two years ago. Rode down from Portland, Oregon on his 2002 RT1150 B.M.W.. About two miles from my residence his front wheel started to slow the bike down. He barely made it to my place. Why? Come to find out, he never changed out his brake fluid! So the system was jammed up with moisture/rust, that had gotten into his brake system. That cost him numerous bucks to have repaired while he was here. He just never thought about changing out the brake fluid. He does now! lol!
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Old 01-11-2019, 01:18 PM   #40
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I always change brake/clutch fluids when necessary. Sometimes every but usually about every other season. I do not have speed bleeders and struggle to get it done by myself. Usually have someone help when I get to the bleeding. Is there a trick to doing it by yourself without the speed bleeders?

I use a strip of Velcro to hold the brake lever overnite. Also when tightening calipers.
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