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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance > Gen 1 Exhausts, Carburetion & Performance

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Old 03-14-2020, 12:29 AM   #81
Falcon 269
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O-ring under the carb top is not required. Look closely and you'll see it sits over a non-existent hole.

Never had a problem omitting them and that's with several hundred banks of these carbs.
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:05 PM   #82
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Quote:
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O-ring under the carb top is not required. Look closely and you'll see it sits over a non-existent hole.

Never had a problem omitting them and that's with several hundred banks of these carbs.
Falcon:

Thank you for the input, but I was looking for the o-ring that goes with the mixture screw (#8 Pilot Screw Set 5MP-14105-00-00), not the 0-ring under the vacuum chamber cover (#35 . .O-Ring 354-14147-00-00).

The old O-ring for the mixture screw (#8) measures 1.0mm (Thickness) X 3.0mm (Inside Diameter) X 5.0mm (Outside Diameter). McMaster-Carr has one with the part #9262k441. Pack of 100 is $15.37 +shipping.

Looks like I will have 96 extras...

Eric
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Old 03-15-2020, 10:28 PM   #83
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Cleaning Done!

Hi everyone:

I just finished cleaning and assembling carb #4. The ultrasonic cleaner has worked pretty good. After cleaning each carb, I emptied the tank and put fresh water and cleaner in for the next carb bath.

All the little air & fuel orifices & passages have been blown out with compressed air and checked for any obstructions.

Checked the float height on each carb. Boy, is that hard to do. I hope that I got the correct angle on the carb as I checked the 14.5mm height. I couldn't find any adjustment necessary, so I left them alone.

I am waiting on my o-ring order from McMaster-Carr for the Mixture screw. It is scheduled to arrive on Wednesday.

Does anybody have any advice for putting the four (4) carbs back together?

It looks like the throttle control tab between each carb has a certain way to go, which I haven't figured out yet.

Eight (8) new fuel log o-rings are going in, which is why I had to take them apart to start with.

Final assembly will have to wait until my mind is nice and fresh.

Thanks again for the help,
Eric
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Old 03-20-2020, 10:36 PM   #84
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Hi everyone:

I am looking for a confirmation and any additional advice on assembling the four (4) carbs back together.

I have replaced the following O-Rings between the carbs:
#58 fuel log - eight (8) total O-Rings
#71 air intake - four (4) total O-Rings

I used some O-Ring lube on each O-Ring to make sure I didn't put any nicks in the O-Rings while assembling the carbs.

My question is regarding the two (2) springs and adjustment bolt labeled #58 (First photo with Green and Yellow arrows). It looks like the tab from carb #1 & 4 that connects to the throttle linkage goes between the bottom spring and the adjustment bolt (Second photo with green arrow, Third photo with blue arrow). Can anyone confirm that for me?

Question part 2: Any suggestions on getting the tab in place while putting the fuel log and air tubing and spacers in?

Question part 3: Any suggestions on getting carb #2 and #3 together while getting the throttle linkage correct?

Boy, I hope I did everything correctly...

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 03-21-2020, 04:02 AM   #85
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That spring goes in last. After the carbs are racked
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Old 03-21-2020, 09:32 PM   #86
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That spring goes in last. After the carbs are racked
Chuck:

Thanks, I will give that a try.

Eric
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Old 03-23-2020, 10:34 PM   #87
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Chuck:

Thanks, I will give that a try.

Eric
Chuck:

That was interesting getting the three (3) springs (#58) back in after assembling the carbs together. My fingers are not strong enough or small enough to put the springs back in place. What is the trick? Is there some kind of small spring compression pliers that compresses the spring and allows it to be inserted?

Anyways, I ended up using very strong "carpet" thread to tie the opposite sides of the spring in a compressed state. Then I slipped the compressed spring in place. After I checked to make sure it was in the correct place, I used a sharp Exacto knife to cut the threads and needle nose pliers to pull the threads out. It worked, but it was the most difficult and time consuming part of putting the carbs back together. My wife, with her smaller hands tied the knots while I compressed the springs with needle nose pliers.

Let me know if anyone has some other experiences they want to share on putting the springs back in.

I am testing the fuel line overnight. I pumped in 10 psi and left it. The last time I tested the fuel line, it wouldn't hold any pressure. This is definitely an improvement. Hopefully, the 10 psi will still be there in the morning.

If the psi holds, I will finish installing the coolant lines, idle adjustment cable and choke hardware. Then comes carb installation.

Will my FZ1 actually start and run? Stay tuned....

Thanks,
Eric
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Old 03-24-2020, 03:29 AM   #88
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As you found, they are a pain to put in. My method typically has consisted of using a small screwdriver and launching them accross the shop several times. Definitely the worst part of the job.
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Old 03-24-2020, 02:12 PM   #89
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As you found, they are a pain to put in. My method typically has consisted of using a small screwdriver and launching them accross the shop several times. Definitely the worst part of the job.
Hey Chuck:

So, those are the springs that you mentioned in an earlier post. My springs never flew across the workshop. The "carpet" thread helped keep them under control. I made the threads long enough that I could actually guide the spring into place holding the opposite threads. The small screwdriver helped also with guiding the spring into the correct location.

Getting the threads out was easy except for the spring pressure shredding the threads. Some shredded threads are still caught between the spring and the tabs. I was able to pull most of them out. I don't see how any of the remnants will adversely affect the performance, so I left them in. I thought about using some fishing line instead of the "carpet" thread, but I didn't have any in the house.

PSI pressure check held overnight. I will finish off the carb assembly and install them in my FZ1 soon.

Thanks again for your help,
Eric
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:24 PM   #90
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The good news is that the carbs went in very nice this time. Someone had suggested using a strap to hold the air box back and that worked really well. The silicone spray wiped on the inside of the boots helped also.

When I turned on the ignition, the fuel pump worked great and shut off just like I expected it to. There are no leaks from the gas log!!! Yeah!!!

The bad news is that only one or two cylinder(s) were firing!!!

I suspect that I have an electrical problem with getting a spark. Any help with trouble shooting this would be appreciated.

Here is my troubleshooting steps:
1. Fuses - I will check the ignition fuse, but if one cylinder is firing, I don't see why the fuse would be bad....

2. Battery - The battery cranked the starter, so I believe that it has enough life left in it to keep the engine running.

3. Spark Plugs - I was going to start with pulling the spark plugs one at a time and see if I get a good spark across the gap.

Does it still work to just lay the spark plug on the engine (with the wire connected of course) and push the starter button? Or is that a bad way to check them?

4. Spark Plug Gap - I will check the gap before #3.

5. Spark Plug Cap resistance - I am going to check the resistance to see if all the caps are good.

6. Ignition Coil resistance - I didn't realize there are two (2) separate coils until I checked the manual. I suspect that one of them may be bad. I will check the resistance and see if they are both in spec.

Have I missed anything?

Thanks for the help,
Eric
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:40 PM   #91
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Go ahead and check spark, but if it worked before carb rebuild I would suspect carb issues. Crack the bowl drains and make sure you have fuel in all of them.
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:57 PM   #92
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Go ahead and check spark, but if it worked before carb rebuild I would suspect carb issues. Crack the bowl drains and make sure you have fuel in all of them.
Chuck:

Thanks for the quick response. I will crack the bowl drains and make sure they each have fuel.

Eric
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:00 AM   #93
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Is it possible that the #2 and #3 plug wires are reversed? I’m pretty sure I have heard of this before.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:10 AM   #94
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Is it possible that the #2 and #3 plug wires are reversed? I’m pretty sure I have heard of this before.

And they should have numbers on them so it is easy to check.
#1 is the left side when sitting on bike
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Old 03-26-2020, 01:39 PM   #95
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A BIG THANK YOU TO ALL THAT HELPED!!!!

After ten (10) years of sitting while other bikes got ridden, my 2002 FZ1 is running again! I was soooooo excited to hear that engine fire up!!!

I felt like a little kid on Christmas morning!!!

Anyways, thanks to Chuck for the float bowl suggestion. I opened each drain up and everyone of them had gas coming out.

Thanks to NHFZ1 for the #2 & #3 switch suggestion. The spark plug wires were correct.

Battery tested at about 13 volts. Good enough for a few more rides.

I pulled the coils and they checked out with the correct resistance. I just had to factor in the two (2) 10K resisters in the circuit when I took the measurement. Both the primary and secondary circuits were within Yamaha specifications.

I also checked all of the 10k resisters and they were all good.

All four (4) spark plugs were wet, so I knew that they had to be getting gas. They were all pretty black, so I cleaned them with carb cleaner (including the gap), measured the resistance and blew them all dry. Checked the gap and put them all back in.

My FZ1 started right up. All four (4) exhaust pipes got hot within a couple of minutes and the fan came on. So, I will have to check the water pump and oil pump next. I will start a new thread for that.

Hopefully, I will be ready for the road when the weather becomes nice.

Thanks again to everyone that helped,
Eric
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Old 03-26-2020, 02:49 PM   #96
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Nice work. I was going to ask what the temp was until I remembered that my multigauge isn't a factory thing. Can't recall when the fan normally comes on. Been in the 40s here with coolant temp around 120 on the freeway, not hot enough for fan
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:04 PM   #97
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Can't recall when the fan normally comes on.
From start with the kickstand down the fan comes on way soon, iirc it was speculated it might be something Yamaha programed in as some sort of test. I know for me it's annoying as I like to start it and let it warm up on brisk days and the fan running sure isn't helping it warm (I know the thermostat is closed but still...) or the battery charge.
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:28 PM   #98
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From start with the kickstand down the fan comes on way soon, iirc it was speculated it might be something Yamaha programed in as some sort of test. I know for me it's annoying as I like to start it and let it warm up on brisk days and the fan running sure isn't helping it warm (I know the thermostat is closed but still...) or the battery charge.
I wouldn't notice, I just start it and go. Take the choke off a block from the housr.
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Old 03-26-2020, 05:32 PM   #99
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I wouldn't notice, I just start it and go. Take the choke off a block from the housr.
Going up a long steep stone driveway had it's disadvantages, including having the rear break free as it came off quicker than expected from a boggy bottom end. I'm still in the haven't rebuilt my carbs club, my own damn fault.
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Old 03-27-2020, 05:11 AM   #100
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Fan comes on about 1 min after start-up if the revs are above approx 1400rpm. Not an indication of any fault in the cooling system but a deliberate action built in to the ECU.

Coolant light comes on for overheating at 104 degs centigrade.

Nice job on the carb rebuild!
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