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Old 06-20-2019, 11:43 PM   #41
MichaelFZ1
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Cable clutch or hydro slave cylinder? Either or, just make sure everything is tied up and out of the way of the flywheel.

But please DO NOT flat tow it with the driveshaft zip tied up to the chassis. Remove the driveshaft. It’s literally 4 bolts.

Should be fine though, I’ve done sketchier things.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:15 AM   #42
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Originally Posted by YamahaMan444 View Post
Side note, receptionist/owner guy told me over the phone that I have to pay this $389 removal and diagnostic fee in cash. Well he said “bring and pay in cash”. Which I didn’t agree too with my signature for the $389 diagnostic and honestly don’t feel like going inside my bank to get the cash since $300 max out of ATM.

Seems fishy, because I’m sure as hell not handing over cash and not getting the paperwork back that they touched and removed my tranny and this all being under the table.

Should I show up with just my card tomorrow? Ha. Make em pay taxes on screwing up what could’ve been a simple 600-800$ seal replace job
He knows you're likely to dispute the charge with cc company after you leave.
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Old 06-21-2019, 04:35 AM   #43
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Not an option. Luckily I went and saw with my own eyes the torn apart transmission and so I thank y’all for the skepticism but it still brings back the question of what you’d do in my shoes.
Given that you have no place to work on an old truck yourself, I'd buy a not so old truck that you don't have to pay someone to work on.

And it is normal that a shop make you pay cash when you retrieve your vehicle in pieces
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Old 06-21-2019, 01:11 PM   #44
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And it is normal that a shop make you pay cash when you retrieve your vehicle in pieces
Most reputable shops would take a credit card if they have taken a picture of all the removed parts in the bed of the truck, you've signed that you received all of the parts, and you've signed that the payment was just for disassembly and diagnoses because you declined the repair.

Another thing people in this situation may face is the shop trying to charge for checkout/disassembly and storage. When confronted with these situations most judges rule the shop must pick one to charge for and surrender the other.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:31 PM   #45
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cash only = mafia

It's what a friend told me.
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Old 06-21-2019, 02:34 PM   #46
YamahaMan444
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Well we have solved the mystery.

Got my parts picked up, and my clutch too and took it to downtown Dallas (I pity anyone who has to commute in a big city. It’s the worst thing ever and I hope to never have to have a job with such a commute)

Clutch looked perfectly fine. I saw that when I picked up the parts. Bishop Transmisoson (MT specialists who only assembly and disassemble and repair transmissions. Don’t even install them) confirmed, clutch is fine. Synchros all look fine, even the ones between gears. Guides fine. Bearings fine that he could see.

Only big issue is the input shaft bearing retaining rod has some material loss, which can cause a bind in the bearing and snap it. They aren’t made anymore. Very hard to find them that aren’t is similar condition (common issue). But besides that, he see’s almost nothing else that needs to be addressed , except seals.

His quote? 250$ completely reassembled. Then suggested a transmission shop about 15 miles from Denton, big chain name, but he said the guy is honest and good to put my transmission in. (Going to call that individual in 30 min when he’s back in the shop to give me a labor quote on reinstalling the tranny) said he can have the completely reassembled transmission sent by courier to that transmission show in Lewisville for 50$.

So if labor is 300$ or less for reinstall I’m looking at 600$ total plus the 389$ for disassemble and dishonest diagnosis. And how ever much towing is.

Figure 1200$.

That’s a much easier pill to swallow. And then yes. I can ditch this mothertrucker

Will update with labor cost.

Appreciate y’all skepticism, and we all know I wasn’t gonna pay 2900$ for that stuff, but thanks for pushing me towards a second eye AND I’m surprised by all the good comradarie of the GOOD shops I called and who referred me to one another and they were honest guys.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:20 PM   #47
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Good news!
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:42 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by YamahaMan444 View Post
I’m surprised by all the good comradarie of the GOOD shops I called and who referred me to one another and they were honest guys.
When you're in over your head mechanically, that kind of information is very valuable.
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:49 PM   #49
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Tranny problems are awful...sounds like you got it licked!
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Old 06-21-2019, 03:54 PM   #50
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Things seem to be turning out better than we expected, and that’s a good thing! Are you considering a letter to the BBB or a negative review to the MF that tried to screw ya?
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Old 06-21-2019, 05:03 PM   #51
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Express lanes, downtown in 15-25 minutes. The reason payment up front is required is obvious, when people get the bad news they stiff the guy who did all the labor and research when they don't pick it up. You sign a mechanics lien at most pro shops when work is initialized.

That's a lot of chasing around and phone time bud, hope the effort pays off.
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Old 06-21-2019, 08:34 PM   #52
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cash only = mafia

It's what a friend told me.
Not true. Cash is still king. Clear out inventory you don't want on the books, or do a job and give the customer a sales tax break. In some cases avoid franchise fees. When everybody is hitting you up for 3 to 7% or more it helps.
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Old 06-21-2019, 09:27 PM   #53
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Glad you got it figured out. Only tranny issue I've ever had happened at a truck stop bathroom.
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Old 06-22-2019, 07:23 AM   #54
Stella Blue
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Glad you got it figured out. Only tranny issue I've ever had happened at a truck stop bathroom.


Dare we ask for details?

Last edited by Stella Blue; 06-22-2019 at 07:24 AM. Reason: Correct emoji
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Old 06-22-2019, 12:01 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by YamahaMan444 View Post
Well we have solved the mystery.

G
So if labor is 300$ or less for reinstall I’m looking at 600$ total plus the 389$ for disassemble and dishonest diagnosis. And how ever much towing is.

Figure 1200$.

That’s a much easier pill to swallow. And then yes. I can ditch this mothertrucker
Yeah, but if you had an honest shop to start with, it would not have been taken apart. Cost for what you really needed / the seals, what $300?

No need to blame the truck. If the truck is still something you find useful / you like, no need to get rid of it. It's not as if it has a bad transmission.
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Old 06-22-2019, 01:15 PM   #56
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Well no way to determine what caused the leak without breaking the tail housing off the bell housing. So It had to be taken apart somewhat , as well
As taken apart to install new seals anyways. A r&R job without repair/breaking it apart and doing stuff costs around 600-700$ at most shops I called
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Old 06-22-2019, 02:23 PM   #57
Tom Renda
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Things seem to be turning out better than we expected, and that’s a good thing! Are you considering a letter to the BBB or a negative review to the MF that tried to screw ya?
Negative review seems fully justified at the very least. Don't let some other poor bastige suffer the same fate!
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Old 06-23-2019, 07:50 AM   #58
BruinFZ1guy
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Ok. Just read the whole thread.

My thoughts:
- I think it was wise to get the second opinion. The first shop was too much money.

- Also, I've noticed that there are shops that suggest work that could conceivable be justified to do, but not entirely necessary. It's one way to make money. But it seems like they were definitely trying to capitalize.

- I suspect the super nice phone call was in part to try to retain your business, but more to smooth things over to prevent a bad yelp/google review. Those reviews are important for a shop's ability to get people in the door.

- The cash only request was really fishy to me, at first. But it makes sense that they would want to avoid a chargeback.

- I think there's nothing wrong with fixing it and selling. If t were me I'd probably make some disclosure in my ad as to the work that was done along with an attractive price and an explanation that I dont wany to deal with any future issues on a truck of this mileage and am upgrading. Once upon a time, I would have passed something like this along and just let it be someone else's problem. More and more, I'd rather take a bit of a loss myself and be candid with a buyer rather than to take advantage of an unsuspecting buyer. It's a "treat others as you'd like to be treated" thing. You aren't talking sawdust in the gearbox or a ODO rollback, but I still think the recent issue is omething I'd want to know about as a buyer. I guess this all depends on how well the repair goes. I'd disclose the repair, anyhow.

- Trucks are handy. I always liked having one when I did. But now I think I'm about to put a hitch on my little Mazda CX-5 instead. The tow capacity isnt huge, but it should pull a trailer with a bike on the freeway and still get over 20mph. I have yet to try it. But I did drive it loaded with boxes for my move this past week and was surprised and how little I noticed the added weight, even with the 2.5L engine.
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Old 06-23-2019, 07:53 AM   #59
BruinFZ1guy
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Anyhow, the upshot is I think it was smart to move on to a new shop, do the cheaper repair, and sell it (without doing so in a way that burns someone).

Next I'd buy a smaller vehicle I could ad a hitch to. Don't know what you have now. Maybe it's something suitable?
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Old 06-24-2019, 06:23 AM   #60
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Anyhow, the upshot is I think it was smart to move on to a new shop, do the cheaper repair, and sell it (without doing so in a way that burns someone).

Next I'd buy a smaller vehicle I could ad a hitch to. Don't know what you have now. Maybe it's something suitable?
He doesn't have space to keep a trailer, and doesn't want to rent one every time, I don't think. He likes to load it up the bed with ramps, showing off his strong build ;)
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