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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 09-19-2018, 12:14 PM   #21
firefly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by okrider View Post
Do you have a caliper to confirm that the pins flared? Also make sure you didn't accidentally end up pushing the pin out when trying to flare it. Look at the wheel side of the chain to make sure the pin is still flush with the plate.
Unfortunately, I have a chines made digital piece of junk caliper, it was my first time to use it, it gives a different reading of the same thing, the pins are flush, I think I'll need to get a new master link and an expensive riveting tool, its either the pins are really hard or the tool is really bad.
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Old 09-19-2018, 12:24 PM   #22
MichaelFZ1
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I never set my chain slack static, always with the bike upright with full rider weight sitting on the seat. It’s easiest if you have a partner available to measure slack, but a good close enough rule is to sit on the bike, and lift the chain at the center between the CS sprocket and the rear sprocket, and if you can just barely make it touch the swing arm with a little force it’s pretty spot on.
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Old 09-19-2018, 01:50 PM   #23
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Always adjusted my gen1 chain per the manual (Pat has it too http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/c...djustment.html). Always to the loose end of the spec. IME a loose chain is a happy chain.

Been using a Stockton chain tool picked up at Cycle Gear for $39 several years ago.
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Old 09-19-2018, 04:39 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Tigerman View Post
I ran the 17/47 for awhile with 124 links. Www.gearingcommander.com can help with any questions on configurations.
17/47 is 2.76
Stock 16/44 is 2.75
Unless you wanted stock gearing with the ability to go taller with rear sprocket change, why bother?
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Old 09-28-2018, 03:40 AM   #25
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Finally, the answer to my original question: Chain length using a 47 tooth rear sprocket with a stock 16 tooth front sprocket is 122 links, as for setting the chain slack I made a piece of wood measuring 45 mm and placed one end at the top of the chain & the other at the base of the swing arm with the bike on the center stand then adjusted the adjustment screws & matched the swingarm marks on both sides, tightened everything to specs.

Now the bike is smooth with less vibration, this was my first attempt to rivet a chain, I think I did a good job, I check the master link visually after each ride just to make sure its staying in place and not backing up. Pat's site is a great help & the feedback I got from members here.
Thanks again.
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:34 AM   #26
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I know that the stock chain length works with the stock front sprocket (16T) and a 46T rear sprocket (+2T) because I have run that combo before, but it is just barely long enough. And I know in the past, changing to a 15T front and 47T rear sprocket was commonly done using the stock chain. So I would assume that a chain with +2 links would work fine with the stock front sprocket and 47T rear sprocket.
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:43 AM   #27
Dean Dinnetz
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16 front, and 47 rear sprocket on a gen.1, would need 118 links on a drive chain.

My 2001 FZ1 came with a 15 front, and 47 rear sprocket.

Previous owner used the o.e.m. drive chain which is 116 links. No reason to go more than 118 links on your 16/47 set up. If you have the o.e.m. length, swing arm.

Dean

P.S. I am currently running a o.e.m. 16 front, and 45 rear sprocket from a 2013 gen.2, on the before mentioned 2001 FZ1. I find that for me, that slightly lower gearing, is perfect.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:12 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Dean Dinnetz View Post
...I am currently running a o.e.m. 16 front, and 45 rear sprocket from a 2013 gen.2, on the before mentioned 2001 FZ1. I find that for me, that slightly lower gearing, is perfect.
Same here on my '02 FZ1.
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Old 09-28-2018, 07:35 PM   #29
5lv
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If it's a D.I.D. chain, here are the flare dimensions.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg riveting_ins.JPG (49.7 KB, 17 views)
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Old 09-28-2018, 09:49 PM   #30
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I might have used more length than needed, didn't want to cut too short, on the swingarm marks it is at 3 and 1/2 marks on both sides, the new DiD chain was kinda stiff when new then loosened up as I rode the bike, I ordered another master link in case I want to shorten it a little, I don't want the wheelbase increased so much to keep the bike nimble in filtering & lane splitting duties.

but overall the job wasn't as difficult as I thought thanks to all the input I got here.
apparently, the shop that did my last tire change got pissed since I bought the tires online and miss aligned the rear wheel causing the chain to develop multiple tight spots.

the riveting tool came with a head that has a ball bearing thing but when I used it the ball got crushed & became useless so I used a smaller diameter pin provided and flared it as much as I could. I've never seen a ball bearing crushed that way it just pancaked
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