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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Misc FZ1-Related Discussion

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Old 10-08-2019, 03:14 PM   #10301
Dean Dinnetz
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Location: Watsonville, Ca.
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Removed a pair of RS2's with the wheels, and put on a set of PR4's with spare wheels, on my 2001 FZ1. The rear RS2 has almost 5K miles on it, and not sure it would last for my upcoming tour, starting this coming Saturday. The front RS2 looks almost new, even with that mileage! The PR4's are almost new, and will with ease, make the ride. Going to Manhattan Beach, Hermosa Beach, Palm Desert, Las Vegas, Scottsdale, Az., then perhaps San Diego, and then home here. Should be about 1,800 miles, all told.

As the front brake pads had 25,500 miles on them, and i had to remove the calipers anyway, to change out the front wheel, easy to check them out. Had looked at them before the 4,000 mile tour i did in late July with a quiet rider and others, and they had about forty percent left, at that time. Well not so now! All four pads had about 1/16" to 3/32" pad life left! Time to change them out. I always keep numerous new front brake pads on hand. Pick them up, for eighteen to twenty bucks, per set. O.E.M. these pads, so i know they will work just fine. Hit the brake rotors with 80 grit wet sandpaper, and then went in the pads. And of course cleaned the pistons in the calipers, first.

So, ready for my tour of southern California and Arizona. Weather should be fantastic, for said tour.

Dean
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Old 10-08-2019, 03:24 PM   #10302
Z Grand
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Replaced the battery for the second time today. The original Yuasa lasted 7 years, the second lasted 8 years. I got no complaints.
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Old 10-08-2019, 09:42 PM   #10303
KBacon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Z Grand View Post
Replaced the battery for the second time today. The original Yuasa lasted 7 years, the second lasted 8 years. I got no complaints.
I wouldn't expect your most recent Yuasa to hold up anywhere near as well.. they aren't allowed to put as much lead in the batteries anymore... so even quality batteries don't last like they used to!!!
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Old 10-09-2019, 06:49 PM   #10304
Z Grand
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The current Yuasa for the FZ1 is way expensive. I went for the Caltric AGM battery several here recommended for around $40. We'll see.
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Old 10-10-2019, 09:05 PM   #10305
jd14771
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Originally Posted by Z Grand View Post
The current Yuasa for the FZ1 is way expensive. I went for the Caltric AGM battery several here recommended for around $40. We'll see.
I myself have been using the bike master AGM battery. Going on 6 years no issues. Never even trickle charger it over winter.
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Old 10-12-2019, 08:42 PM   #10306
hooligan998
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Hopefully fixed an issue I've been having with my tail lights. I run LED bulbs out back for visibility because I feel the stock filament ones are just not bright enough. I've run several brands from Sylvania to eBay cheap-o and eventually get the same problem. The problem is one or the other becomes flaky and goes out. Sometimes they'll come back on if I do a Fonzie impression on it and tap the tail, but usually I have to take the tail off and fix it. What I've been finding is the base of these LEDs, a standard 1157 base, seems loose in the socket. The bottom of an 1157 socket has a spring loaded plate to press up against the bulb to keep contact, but for some reason, these LED bulbs keep failing. Keep in mind here I've never had this problem with filament style bulbs. My usual fix is to use a small piece of duct tape on the side of the LED bulb base and force it into the socket to keep the bulb seated. This works for a couple of weeks, then the tape gets pushed out and the bulbs flicker or go out again.

Today I did something different. I have a spare tail light harness and was looking at the actual sockets on it. I even ventured to disassemble a socket thinking maybe I could alter the bottom base plate and spring. That was a no go. The base plate has tabs to keep it from being pushed out by the spring. So I took a look at the base connections on the LED bulb itself and compared it to the filament bulb. The contact points on the LED bulbs were much flatter than those of the filament bulb. So I grabbed a spare set of eBay cheap-o LED bulbs, an electric soldering pencil and some rosin core solder and did a trial build up of the contact points. It was successful in that I didn't melt the bulb while building up the contact points, so I did the more expensive bulbs that I am currently running and did those. I let them cool for a minute and reinstalled them. The connection now seems tight as it should be and are working flawlessly.

Time will tell if this fix is a more permanent solution.

If anyone wants, I can post some pics of the process. I didn't take any while doing it today, but I can redo the spare cheap-os if you would like me to.
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