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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > FZ1 Problems & Issues > Gen 1 Problems & Issues

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Old 06-20-2018, 09:56 AM   #1
longfuzzy
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Dead Battery - Charging system check

Battery Dead, no start. Recharge Battery. Voltage on Battery is now 12.6. Battery voltage drops to around 10.3v when starting. Battery seems OK.
Charging voltage goes from 12.2 - 13.4 depending on RPM. Seems a little low. Stator coil resistance is .3ohms between any pair at the connector. Resistance to ground 1Mohm from any of the three leads. AC voltage at stator connector between any pair is 10vac at idle and stays at 10vac at revs.
Stator or Regulator or everything is fine?
Any other tests I can try? The constant voltage from the stator and the 1meg resistance to ground has me thinking the stator is leaking.
Thanks.
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Old 06-20-2018, 10:42 AM   #2
firefly
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The stator should be more than 50 volts AC
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Old 06-20-2018, 11:10 AM   #3
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That 10 VAC at idle and at revs ain't right. It should be around 15 VAC at 1000 RPM and closer to 50 VAC @ 3000 RPMs. Assuming your rectifier was completely disconnected during this test, this points to a problem with the AC generator (stator and/or rotor).

Stator coil resistance looks good. Resistance to ground looks good at 1 Meg-ohm (very high). Leakage current to ground with that high resistance would be in the very low micro-amp range.

I assume you tested the stator lead-to-ground resistance with the engine not running. Maybe you are getting a ground path with the engine running. Try taking an AC voltage measurement from each stator lead to ground with the engine running to see if any leakage current exists. If stator winding insulation is good, this voltage measurement should yield at or near zero (0) VAC for all three phases.

The only other thing I can think of that would be causing low stator output is that one or more of the magnets have separated from the rotor such that you aren't generating full flux across the stator windings.

Is this a Gen 1 FZ1?
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:11 PM   #4
G_man
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How old is the battery? I just replaced mine for the second time.

These small batteries when they go dead it's hard to bring them back to life properly.

This time I went cheap on a recommendation from someone on here:

$39 DELIVERED to my door in two days!

Hard to beat

"$39 shipped, filled and charged, ready to ride. I'm using this battery in my FZ1 and in my FJR. "

https://www.ebay.com/itm/AGM-BATTERY...YAAOSw-jFaKFRQ
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:28 PM   #5
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Rectifier completely disconnected, not sure, the 3 pin stator connector was disconnected, is that enough? or do I need to also disconnect the 5 pin infamous white connector, under the tank?

It is a 2005 fz1, so yes, Gen 1.

Stator lead to ground resistance engine not running, yes.

I will try the stator lead to ground voltage (AC) with engine running tonight.

Battery is a few years old, but the charging voltage is about 1v to low. A new battery would certainly work for a while, but if it's not getting a full charge, then it will eventually stop working.

I suspect this is a long term problem I've had, and the battery is not getting a full charge, so it slowly drains and finally can't start the bike.
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Old 06-20-2018, 02:38 PM   #6
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OK, had a few minutes to spare. Engine running, all connectors connected. Voltage from any stator lead to ground is about 7vac. It fluctuates quickly, quite a bit, as low as 6, and up to 8.
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Old 06-20-2018, 03:33 PM   #7
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Read these two threads for another POV on how to trouble shoot.

1) White Connector Mod

http://yamahafz1oa.com/eskortsdefect...lacement.shtml

I'm not sure where you're measuring the AC voltage, but if you have a bad connector that might be a cause.

2) Another read on how to check to see if it is the stator or the white connector. In this particular instance the low AC voltage was due to a bad white connector, and the stator didn't have to be replaced.

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/sho...nnector&page=2
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Old 06-20-2018, 08:03 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longfuzzy View Post
OK, had a few minutes to spare. Engine running, all connectors connected. Voltage from any stator lead to ground is about 7vac. It fluctuates quickly, quite a bit, as low as 6, and up to 8.
The stator needs to be disconnected and isolated for this test.
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Old 06-21-2018, 02:00 AM   #9
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OK, short answer, its the battery. G man was right on. I thought the battery was only 2 or 3 years old, but checking my vendors web site, (can check orders back 5 years), the battery is over 5 years old. So, its due. (I hate how time passes quicker as we get older )

Long answer, read the tread WDD posted. Charging voltage is nominally 13.6. exactly what i have. Also, as arkie6 says, stator must be out of circuit to test.
When I did that tonight, it shows exactly the correct voltages around 15vac at idle and up to over 50+ at 4K rpm. Stator is fine.
The repair manual says the regulator voltage is 14.1 - 14.9, so when I saw 13.6 at the battery I thought I was loosing about a volt. Tonight I checked the voltage at the 5 pin under tank connector, and got exactly 14v on the 'north' side of the connector and 13.9 on the 'south' side, and 13.6 at the battery. This seems to be normal. I may look to add some beefier wiring to limit the voltage drop.

What threw me was the way the battery died. It started fine when I left for work. (Cranking speed normal), but at work I stalled it, and it would not crank. Bump started ok. After work, it still would not crank. Charged it overnight, and it started as normal. My thought was that it did not get charged on the bike, but I think thats wrong now. I bet that if I don't charge it every night, it will soon die again, and eventually will not charge at all.

Bottom line: worry less, ride more.

And a big thank you to all who responded.
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Old 06-21-2018, 05:32 AM   #10
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Great that you got it sorted out, and found the real answer vs replacing stator!

Yep, 5 years is about it for a battery. And I've had one die just like that. Fine one minute when I was riding, went dead at a stop sign. Luckily I was headed down hill and could bump start to get it running and get home. Would charge up for a bit, then die again.

Just keep your new battery on a tender and you'll get the max life out of it.
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