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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > General Motorcycle Discussion

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Old 06-28-2018, 08:57 AM   #41
Alley Oop
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Originally Posted by BruinFZ1guy View Post
I'd love to have the tools and to be able to do changes myself. Maybe one day.
A separate shop or garage would be wonderful.

I've been spoiled with that before and miss it.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:04 AM   #42
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what do you guys think about balancing beads?
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:11 AM   #43
Neanderthal
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what do you guys think about balancing beads?
Have no experience with them, but my guess is that it'd leave me with a lot of the beads laying around on the shed floor, lol.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:14 AM   #44
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The yellow thing seems to be key!
Or cheap out like me and use a $5 tie down.

Cut the strap with the hook off the ratchet part, cut a 15" length off the other part, tie it onto the ratchet.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:18 AM   #45
BruinFZ1guy
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Originally Posted by firefly View Post
what do you guys think about balancing beads?
Didn't work worth a hoot when I put them in my aforementioned unbalanced RS2s. But I might not have had enough in there; I had 1 oz. in the front and 2 oz. in the rear.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:23 AM   #46
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.... I had 1 oz. in the front and 2 oz. in the rear.
Geez, that's a lot of weight! Tire should have been dismounted and rotated. Very obvious that those tires had light and heavy spots, and the heavy spot on the tire was put on the wheels heavy spot. As mentioned in an earlier post, the valve stem is not always the heavy spot, in fact on all 4 of our bikes, the stem is not at the heavy spot on any wheel.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:28 AM   #47
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Once you have a tire changer, you will wonder how you ever got along without it.

- your schedule, even if that means 1:00AM. No waiting for your mechanic to have time.
- no hassle dropping the wheels off and picking them up
- no ongoing cost, which in many cases is exorbitant
- no damaged goods, unless you do the damage yourself. Which, if you are just a bit careful, is very rarely.
- you always know it's been done right
- once you have the setup dialed in, a 15-20 minute start to finish per wheel is the norm.

In my case, I got a Coats 220 for $400 on craigslist. NoMar is the next best option, which you can get into for $600-$800. A balancer from ebay is another $50. Just in cost alone, I paid for the whole thing in less than two years, and the intangible savings in time and hassle were worth far more.

As for the actual balancing, I usually don't.

How I do it:

https://youtu.be/C3ye8wKV9QA

Man, you make that look easy!
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:31 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Neanderthal View Post
Geez, that's a lot of weight! Tire should have been dismounted and rotated. Very obvious that those tires had light and heavy spots, and the heavy spot on the tire was put on the wheels heavy spot. As mentioned in an earlier post, the valve stem is not always the heavy spot, in fact on all 4 of our bikes, the stem is not at the heavy spot on any wheel.
Good to know. I did notice that the shop did not line up the dot on the tire with the stem. But I don't think there was any rationale to where the dude put the dot; I think he just slapped the rubber on there any old way.

I do think I'll try to get my hands on a changer and start doing my own someday. Probably when I get a garage. But based on the experience with the unbalanced RS2, I do think I will balance.

Edit: Also, you think that amount of beads should have worked just fine? I had high hopes based on reviews indicating they align themselves to perfect balance a wheel. I was sorely disappointed.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:44 AM   #49
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Originally Posted by BruinFZ1guy View Post
Didn't work worth a hoot when I put them in my aforementioned unbalanced RS2s. But I might not have had enough in there; I had 1 oz. in the front and 2 oz. in the rear.
if the beads work it would be much better than the stick wts that often get detached.
I wonder how can they keep the tire balanced when in motion, will they stay put at the lightest point by centrifugal force? or get scattered all over the tire inside.
I wish someone with a balancer can confirm if beads work or not
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:45 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by BruinFZ1guy View Post
Good to know. I did notice that the shop did not line up the dot on the tire with the stem. But I don't think there was any rationale to where the dude put the dot; I think he just slapped the rubber on there any old way.

I do think I'll try to get my hands on a changer and start doing my own someday. Probably when I get a garage. But based on the experience with the unbalanced RS2, I do think I will balance.

Edit: Also, you think that amount of beads should have worked just fine? I had high hopes based on reviews indicating they align themselves to perfect balance a wheel. I was sorely disappointed.

You can always come down to Newport Beach and I'll show you how to scratch your rims instead of paying someone else to do it.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:48 AM   #51
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if the beads work it would be much better than the stick wts that often get detached.
I wonder how can they keep the tire balanced when in motion, will they stay put at the lightest point by centrifugal force? or get scattered all over the tire inside.
I wish someone with a balancer can confirm if beads work or not
There are hundreds of posts on adv rider. There have been magazine reviews.

Just keep reading till you find the answer that confirms your gut
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:52 AM   #52
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You can always come down to Newport Beach and I'll show you how to scratch your rims instead of paying someone else to do it.
I'll probably take you up on that sometime! Do you have a balancer?
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:55 AM   #53
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Yep.
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Old 06-28-2018, 09:59 AM   #54
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As mentioned by another poster, I have painted a spot on the inside of each wheel's heavy spot. If the tire has a light spot marked, I line those two up for starters. I'll be doing a tire change soon, will try balancing the wheel before mounting the tire and see how that results.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:10 AM   #55
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Man, you make that look easy!
After some practice it goes pretty quick.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:20 AM   #56
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Yep.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:31 AM   #57
Alley Oop
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Good video!

Seems like the torque of that long prybar does the work. I wonder if I could just have someone hold a pipe in the middle to leverage the long bar on.

Now that I think about it, that would risk damaging the center, since the pipe would be though the hole and touching the wheel not hovering over it. And I'm sure the single-sided wheel center is a tight tolerance and sensitive to any irregularities from damage. The last thing I want to do is spend more money (damage or ruin a wheel) trying to save money!
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:49 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by Alley Oop View Post
Good video!

Seems like the torque of that long prybar does the work. I wonder if I could just have someone hold a pipe in the middle to leverage the long bar on.

Now that I think about it, that would risk damaging the center, since the pipe would be though the hole and touching the wheel not hovering over it. And I'm sure the single-sided wheel center is a tight tolerance and sensitive to any irregularities from damage. The last thing I want to do is spend more money (damage or ruin a wheel) trying to save money!
That's why you need the No Mar. It doesn't have to go down in the center of the wheel. It just hovers right above it so it doesn't even touch it.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:57 AM   #59
grommet
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Originally Posted by Alley Oop View Post
Good video!

Seems like the torque of that long prybar does the work. I wonder if I could just have someone hold a pipe in the middle to leverage the long bar on.

Now that I think about it, that would risk damaging the center, since the pipe would be though the hole and touching the wheel not hovering over it. And I'm sure the single-sided wheel center is a tight tolerance and sensitive to any irregularities from damage. The last thing I want to do is spend more money (damage or ruin a wheel) trying to save money!
Thank you.

Yes the long bar does help a lot.

The vertical center bar does not touch the wheel at all, and should not. Its only purpose is to provide a fulcrum for the bar to work against. It can be raised and lowered as needed based on the width of the wheel.
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