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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > FZ1 Problems & Issues > Gen 2 Problems & Issues

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Old 07-16-2018, 11:51 AM   #21
9Lives
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermic37 View Post
This is exactly how I imagined this simple 30min procedure went.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We9SpMEHKLI
Now thats some funny sh*t. Love the TPBs

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Old 07-16-2018, 01:21 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermic37 View Post
Might also be worth looking the how to forum sections for the ford triton engine spark plug removal. Since they had a habit of breaking. The tool might even work on the bike.
I believe the triton spark plugs are odd. Not a regular spark plug design or thread size/pitch, not even sure if the triton spark plug extractor would help here.
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Old 07-16-2018, 08:27 PM   #23
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Old 07-17-2018, 12:50 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fermic37 View Post
This is exactly how I imagined this simple 30min procedure went.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=We9SpMEHKLI
This caused me to laugh out loud in a restaurant while I was watching on my tablet and listening on headphones.


This is me working on stuff (sometimes).
Exactly.
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:27 AM   #25
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Old 07-17-2018, 05:44 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelFZ1 View Post
I believe the triton spark plugs are odd. Not a regular spark plug design or thread size/pitch, not even sure if the triton spark plug extractor would help here.
That would be correct, and, no, it won't.

The extractor is for the unusual tip that extends further down beyond the threads, which seizes into the hole due to repeated heat cycles and carbon /resin buildup, and breaks off when removing.



Do NOT try to start this engine with the broken plug in place. The compression will blow it out, potentially damaging the coil, but also cause the old plug to file/grind the sides of the hole, dropping metal shavings into the cylinder.
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Old 07-18-2018, 03:46 PM   #27
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Update:

The red loctite worked like a charm. Got the broken plug out without a problem using a socket. Threads seem perfectly intact, no loctite seems to have dripped/ran down the spark plug or anything. I got a replacement spark plug today and reinstalled all the spark plugs and radiator. Everything there seems good.

Local Yammie dealer didn't have an air filter in stock, but they are courtesy express shipping a replacement one which will be in tomorrow.
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Old 07-18-2018, 04:25 PM   #28
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Old 07-18-2018, 05:09 PM   #29
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Good news.
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Old 07-18-2018, 11:10 PM   #30
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It came out so clean I almost felt like I should re-use it! I kid, I kid...

Excited to pick up the replacement air filter tomorrow. I had the spark plugs removed and throttle bodies exposed for a few summer days (covered under a tarp), so if any moisture did managed to get in there, I think it should be all dried out now.

Found out today that I'm most likely going to need to sell my bikes more or less immediately due to some unexpected financial issues. Sigh...
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Old 07-19-2018, 12:23 PM   #31
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Air filter came in this morning. Installed it and put everything back together, but now I have an error/check engine light.

Bike won't even try to turn over. Makes a whining/clicking sound when I hit the starter. Battery is charged, and was replaced at the beginning of the season.

I went into the debug menu to check error codes as listed here, but I'm not 100% sure what I should be looking for. Fuel system voltage (09) was over 12V, AIS solenoid (48), as I did the 2 cent mod and removed the AIS entirely. Before touching the spark plugs/air filter, I blocked the AIS and the bike ran fine, so I don't feel like there should be a problem there. 61 and 62 displayed '12' and '4' respectively - are those supposed to indicate the ECU error codes? Because, if so, there is no '4' listed, and I didn't go anywhere near the CPS, so that seems bizarre.

I tried bump starting the bike, and the engine sounds to turn over fine, but it wouldn't run. Possibly a fuel issue or spark issue? Compression sounded fine from what I could tell, no abnormal sounds from the engine itself.

Here's a video of the sounds it makes when trying to start it.

https://youtu.be/uUDjS1l490I

Any help would be appreciated :/
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Old 07-19-2018, 04:38 PM   #32
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Go over everything with a fine toothed comb.
Check all the fuses for continuity across the check points at the top of the fuse.
Are the battery terminals tight?
Check all wiring harness attachments below the tank and ecu and behind the radiator.

If all else fails perform the cps check as described in the manual.
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/76...age=428#manual
It lists the check temperature as average room temperature, you’re resistance values will change variable to the temperature.

I see in the video you also are having a injector open circuit code listed. Only thing I can think of is a wiring harness issue somewhere. Perform the injector check via the diagnostic menu as outlined in the service manual. When you open up the diagnostic menu on the dashboard, make sure the run-stop switch is turned off, use the select/reset buttons to navigate to 36 for injector #1 and turn the run-stop switch to run and listen for the injector to actuate 5 times. Repeat those steps on 37 for injector #2. And 38 for #3. And 39 for #4. If you clearly don’t have one clicking you can further diagnose a injector or more likely wiring harness problem.
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Old 07-19-2018, 05:34 PM   #33
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Thanks for the detailed reply Michael. I feel like at this point, once I identify the issue, it will be an easy fix. Easier said than done of course!

I did unclip and pull the fusebox (as you can sort of see in the video) and checked each of the fuses visually, and they all seemed OK, however I did not actually check continuity. The fuses for the lights and ignition do seem to be working based on the response when pulling the fuses, but I do have a multimeter, so I will confirm for all of the fuses.

Battery terminals are definitely tight.

A couple of hours ago I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery as well as the ECU in an attempt to clear the active memory of the ECU in case it just needs to recalibrate or something, following the work I've done. Not really expecting any change, but hey, doesn't hurt.

There are many harness attachments below the tank, and I did glance over them, but I have not explicitly traced each of the connections, nor tested the injectors via the diagnostics menu. I think that's a great suggestion. I likely won't have time this evening - I will give that a test tomorrow morning and update with what I find.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:37 PM   #34
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Watched your video from the sound of it, It sounds like the stater clutch is not engaging, my Ducati had the same problem made a horrible sound, and I can remember the CB Honda 1100F and 900F had problems with the stater clutch and sounded similar.
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:20 AM   #35
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That's exactly what it is - but makes no sense. That is not a common problem with the Gen 2, and nothing you did electrically would make that happen.
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Old 07-20-2018, 06:30 AM   #36
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Yeah that's your starter not engaging. tap it with a hammer while hitting the start button.
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Old 07-20-2018, 02:07 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelFZ1 View Post
Go over everything with a fine toothed comb.
see in the video you also are having a injector open circuit code listed. Only thing I can think of is a wiring harness issue somewhere. Perform the injector check via the diagnostic menu as outlined in the service manual. When you open up the diagnostic menu on the dashboard, make sure the run-stop switch is turned off, use the select/reset buttons to navigate to 36 for injector #1 and turn the run-stop switch to run and listen for the injector to actuate 5 times. Repeat those steps on 37 for injector #2. And 38 for #3. And 39 for #4. If you clearly don’t have one clicking you can further diagnose a injector or more likely wiring harness problem.
Just tested this and the injectors are definitely NOT actuating. Not a single click from any of the 4 injectors. Found a video of someone testing theirs here, for reference.

So it seems there is a short or open circuit somewhere with my wiring harness at this point. Each of the injectors seems to be connected tightly. No visible defects in any of the wires that I can see. Disconnected and reconnected as many connectors as possible as well.

I also tried disconnecting power for my PCIII, no change there.

Obviously the fuel injectors didn't all just die simultaneously.

Guess I'm busting out the multi-meter. I have pretty minimal experience in troubleshooting wiring issues, however. I do understand how to read wiring diagram colour codes at least.

EAS27340 from the service manual looks like the wiring diagram for the injector system. Time to get started I suppose.
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Old 07-20-2018, 04:57 PM   #38
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Disconnected the couplers at the ECU and each of the injectors. There was continuity between the Red/Blue leads from all four of the injector couplers to the Red/Blue couple on the ECU... however there was NOT continuity between the other leads on any of the four injector couplers and the coupler at the ECU.

So I traced continuity from the couplers at the injectors to the sub-wire harness couplers and it's fine, and I go to trace from there, and it goes to my PCIII, and then there's another coupler that goes from the PCIII to the ECU. There was NOT continuity between the two couplers of the PCIII. Seems to be a break there. So I disconnect the PCIII and bypass it. Tested from the injector to the ECU and there is now continuity for all the injectors.

Tested the injectors via diag and now they are all actuating 5x like they should be. I guess my PCIII managed to somehow die? Unfortunately... there's still an ECU error 39 being displayed when turning the key to ON, and it is still making that same sound and will not start the bike.

So I tried whacking the starter a few times with a hammer while trying to start it. The only thing it did was cause an error 12 to now show up as well (Crankshaft position sensor). Sigh...
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Old 07-20-2018, 08:11 PM   #39
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Sounds fuse-like to me. I'm too drunk to check the wiring diagram.

Start trying to solve each symptom by itself. The way you're going about it, you're as likely to cause more issues than solve any. Let's figure out why the starter isn't engaging. Or perhaps why the injectors are not firing (fuse). There's nothing in common that would cause an electrical and mechanical problem to be related. One step at a time.
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Old 07-21-2018, 05:23 PM   #40
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Tested the fuses today with the multimeter (including that from the starter relay) and they all were OK. Tried clearing the errors via diag mode, as the injectors seem to all individually test OK as well, but they still come up with turning the ignition on, and the starter motor is still making that whining sound.

Decided to just bite the bullet and took it in to the shop this afternoon. They won't be able to look at it until Tuesday. We'll see if they can figure it out. I've totally exhausted everything within my ability at this point, and I don't have the time or money to just replace things hoping that that will correct it. If the shop can't figure it out within a couple hours, I guess I'll just have to sell it as is at a lower price.

I'd love to figure this out on my own, but money is suddenly a big problem and I'm feeling hopeless at this point.

Thanks for all the help thus far everyone.
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