make a donation to the fz1oa
fz1oa chat
fz1oa picture uploader
maintain your own photo albums
locate fz1oa members
search the entire board
click here for fz1oa web site home page
register a new account, it's free!
email the fz1oa webmasters
read the fz1oa guidelines
read the fz1oa policy
open pat's fz1 site in a new window
open iowaz fz1 site in a new window
technical tips

Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 11-18-2019, 09:19 AM   #1
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
7 years in storage rebuld

Hello everyone. It has been some time since I have been on the forum as my 02 FZ1 has been shelved 7+ years due to the notorious second gear skip issue. Bike has been pulled from storage, washed, and actually fired and ran for about 60 seconds on choke before I shut it down.

So for my winter project I plan to replace the 2nd/6th gear and shift fork. I also plan to tear down the head and replace valve seals and hand lap/ shim the valves. While I have the head off I will replace the head gasket with the thinner R1 gasket for a compression bump and clean up the intake and exhaust ports on the head. The carb boots are cracked and will be replaced and port matched. I also plan to inspect the clutch as I recall it was beginning to slip after a few hard days at the track.

Does anyone have any other suggestions on maintenance/performance items as a "while you are in there" type of repair? Am I missing anything? The bike has 40K miles on it and other than the second gear problem, ran well. I do seem to think it was a bit up on oil consumption? Plans are for an around town hooligan machine with some track time. Just looking for occasional contrast in my riding from the goldwing.

Plans are this week to do a pre tear down compression and leak-down test. I have been trying to read through as much material on here as I can so I don't miss anything.

thanks!
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers

Last edited by 4Rmotorsports; 11-18-2019 at 03:15 PM. Reason: Clarification
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 09:45 AM   #2
Longboardr
Gone to the dirt side
 
Longboardr's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: York County, PA
Posts: 2,180
Rebuild the carbs while they're out. I need to do mine on the '05 this winter. The o-rings go bad. Someone will remember and have a link to the rebuild, need to bookmark it when I'm not on my phone.
__________________
'05 Liquid Silver FZ1: Traxxion Springs/Axxion Valves • R6R Shock • Multi-Gauge V7.1 • '00-'01 R1 Shift Arm • Soupys Adjustable Bones • Devilsyam Frame Plugs • Convertibars • Oxford Heaterz with Symtec control • GYT-R CF Slip On • Fren Tubo SS Brake Lines • Brembo Pads • Fehling Case Guards • Ninja 250 Highway Pegs • Pyramid Hugger • Sargent Seat • FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster Horn • Vista Cruise Throttle Lock • The2wheels Shorty Levers • Axio Tail Bag •

Last edited by Longboardr; 11-18-2019 at 10:34 AM.
Longboardr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 11:32 AM   #3
grommet
kinetic mentality
 
grommet's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: hangin' with Toto
Posts: 13,166
Not to rain on your parade, but you will spend more on parts for that rebuild than your bike is worth. Add in your time and the possible frustrations inherent to the motor tear-down (rotor removal), and it may be wise to consider seeking a donor engine.

Also before you tear into the motor, make sure the springs in the shift mechanism are not broken. In particular there is a tension spring in there that if broken, will allow the transmission to easily slip out of gear and give a false positive on the 2nd gear issue.

Check out this thread for info on the shifter springs: http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127820

And this one by Ravenrider on the full tear-down with many useful hints on the process: http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119101

As for the R1 head gasket, unless you do a lot more work on the entire air flow system, including a full-system exhaust, you will not see very much hp improvement. Even then, you may get it to 140 or 145hp. It's probably around 125-130 stock. So with a ton of work and money, you may get 20 more hp. Is that worth it to you? Then once you do all that work, if you are running stock suspension, the motor will be much more capable than the rest of the bike for performance riding. It's got plenty of power stock to run a great pace on any twisty roads, but as you go up in speed there, the frame & swingarm flex and overall suspension performance will limit your progress.

It may sound like I'm being a big downer on the Gen 1. I'm not just trying to bash it. What I'm saying is that it's a great bike within its intended performance envelope. If you want it to perform much outside that envelope, you will spend a lot of money and time, which may not be worth it to you in the end. If you want a much better performing bike, either in power or handling, I recommend buying one that is designed that way from the factory. I've had my lunch eaten by guys at the track on 250cc race bikes. I've had a guy 2-up on a bagger run a pace in the twisties that I'd be foolish to try to beat.

I did all the work you are about to do. I spent the money, put in all the hours of labor. I also did the R1 forks and upgraded rear shock. I wish the me of today was around to tell the me of back then to think carefully about what I was doing and to ask myself to consider the value of what I was getting for what I was putting into it. I ended up getting a donor engine, riding the bike for 2 more years, crashing it at the track, and replacing it with a different bike that cost a lot more but also performed much better the first day I got it.

It's all in what you really want, and what you are willing to do to get it.

Happy trails
__________________
Patient zero.


Partly stabilized, partly curious.


Be your own man; don't be an owned man.

Some people would rather be dead than wrong.
grommet is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 12:27 PM   #4
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by grommet View Post
Not to rain on your parade, but you will spend more on parts for that rebuild than your bike is worth. Add in your time and the possible frustrations inherent to the motor tear-down (rotor removal), and it may be wise to consider seeking a donor engine.

Also before you tear into the motor, make sure the springs in the shift mechanism are not broken. In particular there is a tension spring in there that if broken, will allow the transmission to easily slip out of gear and give a false positive on the 2nd gear issue.

Check out this thread for info on the shifter springs: http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=127820

And this one by Ravenrider on the full tear-down with many useful hints on the process: http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=119101

As for the R1 head gasket, unless you do a lot more work on the entire air flow system, including a full-system exhaust, you will not see very much hp improvement. Even then, you may get it to 140 or 145hp. It's probably around 125-130 stock. So with a ton of work and money, you may get 20 more hp. Is that worth it to you? Then once you do all that work, if you are running stock suspension, the motor will be much more capable than the rest of the bike for performance riding. It's got plenty of power stock to run a great pace on any twisty roads, but as you go up in speed there, the frame & swingarm flex and overall suspension performance will limit your progress.

It may sound like I'm being a big downer on the Gen 1. I'm not just trying to bash it. What I'm saying is that it's a great bike within its intended performance envelope. If you want it to perform much outside that envelope, you will spend a lot of money and time, which may not be worth it to you in the end. If you want a much better performing bike, either in power or handling, I recommend buying one that is designed that way from the factory. I've had my lunch eaten by guys at the track on 250cc race bikes. I've had a guy 2-up on a bagger run a pace in the twisties that I'd be foolish to try to beat.

I did all the work you are about to do. I spent the money, put in all the hours of labor. I also did the R1 forks and upgraded rear shock. I wish the me of today was around to tell the me of back then to think carefully about what I was doing and to ask myself to consider the value of what I was getting for what I was putting into it. I ended up getting a donor engine, riding the bike for 2 more years, crashing it at the track, and replacing it with a different bike that cost a lot more but also performed much better the first day I got it.

It's all in what you really want, and what you are willing to do to get it.

Happy trails
grommet, thank you for the reply. I am looking for ALL feedback good or bad!

As my signature shows I do already have exhaust, intake and suspension upgrades.

Thank you for the links above. I am confident in the 2nd gear diagnosis and have read the rebuild thread by ravenrider. I am not interested in doing all of that! I am looking more at RDCUSMC's rebuild where he was able to get a mild power increase through the range with minimal cost and effort.

As far as cost, the little bit of research I have done looks like fixing 2nd would be around $275 if I use new parts. I have a salvage yard close by and will look into good used parts. Head gasket is ~ $60. Valve seals and other gaskets considered, plus everything that I already would have to do(...fluids, carb rebuild, carb boots, battery, tires etc.) I have a preliminary budget in mind of around 1k.

Does this seem correct to most?

With the cheaper engines on ebay at around $800 and the bulk of my expense still not covered by replacing the engine it seems I would be better served by doing the repairs. That combined with not knowing the condition of the used engine has me chasing this avenue for the time being.

To your last statement, I guess what I want is to restore the dependability and performance I once had with this machine to just simply have fun..as before. I am not looking to be the fastest or handle the best. I am older now and don't need to do all the crazy things I once did.....
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 12:28 PM   #5
iluvmyfz1
Just enjoy the machine....
 
iluvmyfz1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 5,455
For the head work, valve adjustment, and some info on degreeing the cam, search for the work rdusmc (Ron) did on his last year. If you're in there deep, it would be a worthy read.

EDIT: I see you just posted about Ron's thread. Cool beans.

Congrats on dusting off the project, and look forward to following along. Most of us would appreciate the write up and pics of your progress.
__________________
-'03 FZ1- "Xena"- Custom Orange/Red paint- FuzzyOne mirror mod- SW Motech QR racks- Givi E460 top- E21 side cases- SS brake lines - Scorpion slip-on- R6 shock- Throttlemeisters- Sargent seat- R1 shift arm- Custom sprocket cover- Cheap ass battery- Extended passenger pegs - Gauge of Eternal Coolness - Valtermoto Rearsets - LEDs -
iluvmyfz1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 03:13 PM   #6
grommet
kinetic mentality
 
grommet's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: hangin' with Toto
Posts: 13,166
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Rmotorsports View Post
grommet, thank you for the reply. I am looking for ALL feedback good or bad!

As my signature shows I do already have exhaust, intake and suspension upgrades.

Thank you for the links above. I am confident in the 2nd gear diagnosis and have read the rebuild thread by ravenrider. I am not interested in doing all of that! I am looking more at RDCUSMC's rebuild where he was able to get a mild power increase through the range with minimal cost and effort.

As far as cost, the little bit of research I have done looks like fixing 2nd would be around $275 if I use new parts. I have a salvage yard close by and will look into good used parts. Head gasket is ~ $60. Valve seals and other gaskets considered, plus everything that I already would have to do(...fluids, carb rebuild, carb boots, battery, tires etc.) I have a preliminary budget in mind of around 1k.

Does this seem correct to most?

With the cheaper engines on ebay at around $800 and the bulk of my expense still not covered by replacing the engine it seems I would be better served by doing the repairs. That combined with not knowing the condition of the used engine has me chasing this avenue for the time being.

To your last statement, I guess what I want is to restore the dependability and performance I once had with this machine to just simply have fun..as before. I am not looking to be the fastest or handle the best. I am older now and don't need to do all the crazy things I once did.....
I did not see the upgrades in your signature line. With that stuff you are in pretty good shape.

I also thought you were going to replace all the gears - wheels & pinions for gears 2-6. I'm still not quite sure just which ones you are going to change, but see that 2 and 6 are right next to each other so you're probably not replacing as much as I thought. Yeah, that's a lot less money.

Like Qui-Gon Ginn, I assumed too much.

Best of luck with this project.
__________________
Patient zero.


Partly stabilized, partly curious.


Be your own man; don't be an owned man.

Some people would rather be dead than wrong.
grommet is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-18-2019, 03:13 PM   #7
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
A few pre tear down pics. Got most of the machines moved to storage so I will have room.





Don’t mind my messy garage. I am in the middle of moving some stuff around.
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2019, 05:24 AM   #8
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
I was able to do a compression and leak down test yeasterday. It looks like I may be doing rings as well. The test was done cold. Manual says 10 percent leakage is acceptable. I am wondering how much can be attributed to being cold and having sat for so long?



“Wet” check was done with a shot of sea foam fogging oil down each bore. Not sure what happened with cyl 4 the first go around but it came back up after recheck.

I believe we have a nikasil cylinder? I have never done rings with a plated bore before. Ive got some reading to do.

I stopped when it came to removing the rotor/flywheel. I wasn’t ready to get into that yet.
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2019, 06:06 AM   #9
oldjeep
Registered User
 
oldjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Victoria, MN
Posts: 566
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Rmotorsports View Post
I was able to do a compression and leak down test yeasterday. It looks like I may be doing rings as well. The test was done cold. Manual says 10 percent leakage is acceptable. I am wondering how much can be attributed to being cold and having sat for so long?



“Wet” check was done with a shot of sea foam fogging oil down each bore. Not sure what happened with cyl 4 the first go around but it came back up after recheck.

I believe we have a nikasil cylinder? I have never done rings with a plated bore before. Ive got some reading to do.

I stopped when it came to removing the rotor/flywheel. I wasn’t ready to get into that yet.
After sitting for 7 years I wouldn't take any compression results too seriously until you cycle the engine for a while. If it were mine I'd toss a tablespoon or 2 of dextron in each cylinder then pull the cover off the crank bolt and spin it for a little while with an impact wrench (plugs out).
With the results you got already I wouldn't be even thinking about replacing the rings.
__________________
Chuck P
2003 FZ1
2004 DL1000
http://www.oldjeep.com
oldjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-19-2019, 11:19 AM   #10
arkie6
Registered User
 
arkie6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Russellville, AR
Posts: 5,548
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Rmotorsports View Post

I believe we have a nikasil cylinder? I have never done rings with a plated bore before. Ive got some reading to do.
Yes. I would put a new set of rings in while you have the engine out and apart. I would also de-glaze the carbon from the cylinder bores when the pistons are out to insure the new rings seat properly. I used a simple homemade setup consisting of a 3" diameter round toilet brush with the handle cut off with the remaining stub chucked in an electric drill. I then wrapped the springy nylon bristles with a fine Scotch-Brite pad and ran that up and down the cylinders while spraying liberally with WD-40. It seemed to do a good job and my engine never used any oil after the break-in following the rebuild. This is a common technique you will find on the dirt bike forums for plated cylinder rebuilds.
arkie6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 01:18 AM   #11
Quisp
Orlando , FL
 
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 150
I thought only Gen 2 was Nikasil ?
Quisp is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 04:34 AM   #12
arkie6
Registered User
 
arkie6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Russellville, AR
Posts: 5,548
Quote:
Originally Posted by Quisp View Post
I thought only Gen 2 was Nikasil ?
No, the Gen 1 FZ1 along with the R1 engine beginning in 1998 have had ceramic plated cylinders. Nikasil is a trademarked process and I can't recall if Yamaha uses the actual Nikasil process or an equivalent process, but I do know it is a hard ceramic plating on the Gen 1.
arkie6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 05:22 AM   #13
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
I am trying to start ordering some of the parts that I will need. Looking at parts fiche it looks like the R1 uses the same part number for cam gears. I found these

https://store.schnitzracing.com/ape-...-yzf-r1-98-03/

but it says they are press on. Is that just a bad description? Anyone know if these will work?

I also cannot find a gasket “kit” for our machine. But there is one available here

https://www.ebay.com/p/28013355224?i...iABEgKQnvD_BwE

But again for an R1. I am hoping this will work.

Lastly, everyone references a Cometic R1 thin head gasket. Does anyone have a part number? The cometic website is terrible.
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 09:58 AM   #14
grommet
kinetic mentality
 
grommet's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: hangin' with Toto
Posts: 13,166
I bought all parts from partzilla. Back when I was doing this work they had the best overall prices and availability.

No kits per se. Just look through the parts fiche and order what you need.

BTW on the rotor removal - a method I found to work without going through the welding and lathe work as Ravenrider did is:

Find a bolt with the same thread as the ones in the center of the rotor. Put the bolt in and tighten it pretty snug. Leave the engine where it can get cold at night. Every morning, heat the rotor with a Mapp torch. Not too much, just get it hot. Use an impact wrench on the bolt, but at low pressure (or setting, if you have an electric one). Go at it for 3 or 4 sets of 10 seconds. If you overdo it, you'll strip the threads in the rotor. Lightly tap the rotor shell with a hammer. Not enough to leave a mark, just enough to get it to vibrate a bit.

It took about a week of doing that every morning then it popped off. The idea is to keep the pressure on continuously, then heat and vibrate the rotor when the crank is cold (smaller).
__________________
Patient zero.


Partly stabilized, partly curious.


Be your own man; don't be an owned man.

Some people would rather be dead than wrong.
grommet is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 11-21-2019, 10:36 AM   #15
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
Thanks grommet. I checked two hardware stores today and neither had a fine thread M16 bolt. I ordered a motion pro puller on amazon and it will be in tomorrow. I’ll start heat cycling the rotor when I get home today.
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 07:05 AM   #16
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
Does anyone know why the piston part number is the same for R1 vs FZ1 but the part number for piston rings is not? What is different?
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 07:22 AM   #17
oldjeep
Registered User
 
oldjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Victoria, MN
Posts: 566
According to Wiseco application chart
wis-2913xa fits:
FZ1 2001-2005
R1 1999 - 2003
__________________
Chuck P
2003 FZ1
2004 DL1000
http://www.oldjeep.com
oldjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 09:20 AM   #18
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldjeep View Post
According to Wiseco application chart
wis-2913xa fits:
FZ1 2001-2005
R1 1999 - 2003
Hmm. Yamaha shows

R1 part number 4XV-11603-00-00
FZ1 part number 5LV-11603-00-00

I placed an order for the gasket kit below based on the fiche showing the same gaskets used on FZ1 vs R1. It is much cheaper than ordering all the gaskets separate. Even if I don’t use the head gasket I will still make out ahead. Going to measure the gasket thickness and see what version it is. I think Yamaha at one time had three different thicknesses for the R1?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Athena-Comp...nd!44212!US!-1

Also ordered the adjustable cam gears I referenced earlier.

I hit the rotor with a map gas torch twice yesterday and once this morning. Fingers crossed it comes apart.
__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 11:09 AM   #19
oldjeep
Registered User
 
oldjeep's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2019
Location: Victoria, MN
Posts: 566
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Rmotorsports View Post
Hmm. Yamaha shows

R1 part number 4XV-11603-00-00
FZ1 part number 5LV-11603-00-00

I placed an order for the gasket kit below based on the fiche showing the same gaskets used on FZ1 vs R1. It is much cheaper than ordering all the gaskets separate. Even if I don’t use the head gasket I will still make out ahead. Going to measure the gasket thickness and see what version it is. I think Yamaha at one time had three different thicknesses for the R1?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Athena-Comp...nd!44212!US!-1

Also ordered the adjustable cam gears I referenced earlier.

I hit the rotor with a map gas torch twice yesterday and once this morning. Fingers crossed it comes apart.
Not sure what you are looking at for applications. But if you look at this part that you posted it appears to be listing both FZ1 and R1 applications.

https://www.partzilla.com/product/ya...LV-11603-00-00


The other part you posted does also show some R1 applications and appears to be 4 rings rather than 5 - so maybe 5LV-11603-00-00 is an updated version of 4XV-11603-00-00 with an extra oil control ring or something like that?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg rings2.jpg (74.2 KB, 105 views)
__________________
Chuck P
2003 FZ1
2004 DL1000
http://www.oldjeep.com
oldjeep is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 11-22-2019, 08:38 PM   #20
4Rmotorsports
Registered User
 
4Rmotorsports's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Brunswick, ohio
Posts: 35
Rotor removal is a success



Engine is out and ready for disassembly.

__________________
dale walker full exhaust and stage 2 jet kit, 3 degree timing advance, ais eliminator, traxxion dynamics ak-20 cartridge, penske rear shock, braking wave rotors, stainless steel brake lines, rizoma adjustable rearsets, piazzo levers
4Rmotorsports is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:53 PM.


Questions? Comments?
Click on name below to contact via PM
Rabeet (Admin) Desmo (Admin)

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Website and Message Board Contents Copyright 2001-2007 FZ1OA
The marks YAMAHA® and FZ1® are used under license from Yamaha Motor Corporation, U.S.A.
The information on this web site is NOT approved or endorsed by Yamaha Motor Corporation in any way.
Page generated in 0.10709 seconds with 12 queries