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Old 11-13-2018, 09:59 AM   #41
Tom Renda
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Oh my.

On the plus side, I bet you could get a title for it pretty easily - many states did not even issue titles for LBCs ("Little British Cars") in the Seventies.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Renda View Post
Oh my.

On the plus side, I bet you could get a title for it pretty easily - many states did not even issue titles for LBCs ("Little British Cars") in the Seventies.
In Georgia pre-86 is bill of sale only. No title needed to register it.
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:28 PM   #43
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Anyone else here follow Bad Obsession's "Project Binky"?
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:28 AM   #44
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Well it is 21 degrees in Baltimore (11 in Canaan Valley where the B lives) so she's off the road for the winter.

In Baltimore I am working on engine rebuild so I can pull the existing unit, seal up oil leaks, paint the engine, and paint the engine bay.

I spent last night measuring my crank with a micrometer. (Wait that doesn't sound good! Oh well, at least it's not bent!). Measurements showed most wear near rear main journal (Makes sense since clutch lives back there next to it and probably not balanced perfectly). Enough wear that it will go right to .020 over on the replacement bearings.

Check out the fancy crank measuring stand!
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Old 12-08-2018, 06:30 AM   #45
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Exceptional example of British engineering..
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:18 AM   #46
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Acquired an extra head while piling up parts for extra motors. So I am working on port and polish skills. I removed a very small amount of material near the dividing wall between chambers for cylinders 1 and 2 (you can see the little bump on the right side chamber that has been removed on the left one if you look hard) and polished the left had chamber for comparison. Machinist examined it and said I was on the right track for a whopping 1/4 to 1/2 HP gain.
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Old 12-08-2018, 11:23 AM   #47
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You also smoothing out the intake and exhaust ports? You’ll probably find a lot of roughness and casting flash there. Ideally you’d want to flow test after any porting job to make sure all are the same, for a street motor, close enough is usually good.
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Old 12-08-2018, 12:09 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Renda View Post
I spent last night measuring my crank with a micrometer. (Wait that doesn't sound good! Oh well, at least it's not bent!). Measurements showed most wear near rear main journal (Makes sense since clutch lives back there next to it and probably not balanced perfectly). Enough wear that it will go right to .020 over on the replacement bearings.

Check out the fancy crank measuring stand!
Are you sure about that?
.020 inches or .020 mm?
That seems to be alot if in inches.
Was that crank already machined for undersized bearings?
If you have the old bearings, they should have a .020 US marking to indicate that. If you don't have the old bearings, measure the rod and main bearing bores. You want to make sure there was no line boring of the block or rods that required oversized bearings.

.020 millimeters would of course be less than .001 inch.
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Old 12-08-2018, 03:21 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelFZ1 View Post
You also smoothing out the intake and exhaust ports? You’ll probably find a lot of roughness and casting flash there. Ideally you’d want to flow test after any porting job to make sure all are the same, for a street motor, close enough is usually good.
I have been told to skip exhaust ports as the gain is minimal. I do plan on doing the intake ports because they are Siamesed and the junction requires work to smooth out air flow. But I need to get a good tool first. I did the combustion chamber with A POS HF $9.99 Dremel set
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Old 12-08-2018, 03:23 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidSilver View Post
Are you sure about that?
.020 inches or .020 mm?
That seems to be alot if in inches.
Was that crank already machined for undersized bearings?
If you have the old bearings, they should have a .020 US marking to indicate that. If you don't have the old bearings, measure the rod and main bearing bores. You want to make sure there was no line boring of the block or rods that required oversized bearings.

.020 millimeters would of course be less than .001 inch.
I will check - I though .010 .020 and .030 inches were the standard oversizes.

(After all, this started life as a old tractor motor.)
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:26 PM   #51
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They are the standard oversizes(technically undersizes) but they become those sizes from the crankshaft being ground down, not wear. You used to be able to buy rod bearings for some motors in .001 or .002 undersized.
Undersize refers to the journal dimensions. Oversize refers to the OD of the bearing insert itself.
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Old 12-08-2018, 07:33 PM   #52
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As an example this would be a .25 mm undersized bearing. IOW crank ground down .25mm or about .010.
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Old 12-09-2018, 09:55 PM   #53
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I should have made it clear I will be having the crank reground. Here was the analysis:

Data from MG Experience

https://www.mgexp.com/article/specif...experience.net

Undersizes available

-.010, -.020, -.030 and -.040 in.
(-.254, -.508, -.762, -1.016 mm.

The highs and lows on mine were, respectively, 2.1264 on the first (forward most) main journal, and 2.1253 on the 5th journal. (Using a Fowler micrometer that is good down to 1 ten thousandth.)

Range of acceptable sizes for OEM bearings is 2.1265 to 2.127 in. (54.01 to 54.02 mm.) so every main bearing journal has been worn below acceptable tolerance.

I was incorrect on which oversize I would be using (after crank regrind) - - looks like .010 in would be sufficient.
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Last edited by Tom Renda; 12-09-2018 at 10:22 PM.
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Old 12-09-2018, 10:05 PM   #54
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One HUGE problem with the car is the brakes. They are non power brakes. Even with discs in the front, it feels like the brake peddle should activate an audible laugh track when you step on it, because the brakes barely work.

I am certain I will hit a deer out in WVa if I don't fix them. (Maybe several if they all walk across the road together, as they are wont to do.)

So I jumped at the chance to get this remedy- double piston calipers, new vented discs, new pads, and new steel braided lines.
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Last edited by Tom Renda; 12-10-2018 at 09:27 AM.
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Old 12-10-2018, 04:40 AM   #55
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Oh, now you triggered a memory of installing brake boosters on some of these, but I don't ever recall messing down on the wheels.. not an option?
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Old 12-10-2018, 06:01 AM   #56
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I think the idea for the double piston calipers started out when some folks installed calipers from a different LBC (Lotus, maybe?). Probably not a common upgrade -- it was hard enough to make the car move forward reliably.

Stopping was a luxury.
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Old 12-10-2018, 10:59 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Renda View Post
Machinist examined it and said I was on the right track for a whopping 1/4 to 1/2 HP gain.
In terms of percentage that is a pretty good power boost!
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Old 12-11-2018, 05:20 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Renda View Post
I think the idea for the double piston calipers started out when some folks installed calipers from a different LBC (Lotus, maybe?). Probably not a common upgrade -- it was hard enough to make the car move forward reliably.

Stopping was a luxury.
Not saying they wouldn't make for better braking, but a booster would also improve pedal feel, require a lot less force. I remember mounting and plumbing those was simple, and back then, I didn't have much experience (I was being supervised, like an apprentice..)
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Old 12-11-2018, 06:40 AM   #59
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I may add the booster as well. The thing is so low to the ground any deer you hit at speed will likely wind up in your lap.

I need to hurry get it finished before I am too brittle to get into and out of it. My buddy Steve's dad (88 yoa) had to move Steve's Morgan once. When he went to get out he had to lay down and pull himself out sideways, on the ground.
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Last edited by Tom Renda; 12-11-2018 at 09:48 AM. Reason: Remove some Smockin typos.
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Old 12-11-2018, 06:04 PM   #60
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I've had to develop a proper method of getting in and out of my Boxster when the top is up, otherwise I end up looking and feeling like a creaky old guy. It's much easier when the top is down, though.

When I gave my buddy buzzerd a ride, I was somewhat gratified that he also had difficulty getting in and out (we are the same age).
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