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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > "Off Topic" Discussion

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Old 11-13-2018, 09:59 AM   #41
Tom Renda
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Oh my.

On the plus side, I bet you could get a title for it pretty easily - many states did not even issue titles for LBCs ("Little British Cars") in the Seventies.
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Old 11-13-2018, 12:21 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Renda View Post
Oh my.

On the plus side, I bet you could get a title for it pretty easily - many states did not even issue titles for LBCs ("Little British Cars") in the Seventies.
In Georgia pre-86 is bill of sale only. No title needed to register it.
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Old 11-13-2018, 01:28 PM   #43
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Anyone else here follow Bad Obsession's "Project Binky"?
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Old Yesterday, 06:28 AM   #44
Tom Renda
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Well it is 21 degrees in Baltimore (11 in Canaan Valley where the B lives) so she's off the road for the winter.

In Baltimore I am working on engine rebuild so I can pull the existing unit, seal up oil leaks, paint the engine, and paint the engine bay.

I spent last night measuring my crank with a micrometer. (Wait that doesn't sound good! Oh well, at least it's not bent!). Measurements showed most wear near rear main journal (Makes sense since clutch lives back there next to it and probably not balanced perfectly). Enough wear that it will go right to .020 over on the replacement bearings.

Check out the fancy crank measuring stand!
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File Type: jpg mgb crank measuring stand.jpg (83.1 KB, 36 views)
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Old Yesterday, 06:30 AM   #45
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Exceptional example of British engineering..
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Old Yesterday, 07:18 AM   #46
Tom Renda
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Acquired an extra head while piling up parts for extra motors. So I am working on port and polish skills. I removed a very small amount of material near the dividing wall between chambers for cylinders 1 and 2 (you can see the little bump on the right side chamber that has been removed on the left one if you look hard) and polished the left had chamber for comparison. Machinist examined it and said I was on the right track for a whopping 1/4 to 1/2 HP gain.
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Old Yesterday, 11:23 AM   #47
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You also smoothing out the intake and exhaust ports? You’ll probably find a lot of roughness and casting flash there. Ideally you’d want to flow test after any porting job to make sure all are the same, for a street motor, close enough is usually good.
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Old Yesterday, 12:09 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Renda View Post
I spent last night measuring my crank with a micrometer. (Wait that doesn't sound good! Oh well, at least it's not bent!). Measurements showed most wear near rear main journal (Makes sense since clutch lives back there next to it and probably not balanced perfectly). Enough wear that it will go right to .020 over on the replacement bearings.

Check out the fancy crank measuring stand!
Are you sure about that?
.020 inches or .020 mm?
That seems to be alot if in inches.
Was that crank already machined for undersized bearings?
If you have the old bearings, they should have a .020 US marking to indicate that. If you don't have the old bearings, measure the rod and main bearing bores. You want to make sure there was no line boring of the block or rods that required oversized bearings.

.020 millimeters would of course be less than .001 inch.
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Old Yesterday, 03:21 PM   #49
Tom Renda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MichaelFZ1 View Post
You also smoothing out the intake and exhaust ports? You’ll probably find a lot of roughness and casting flash there. Ideally you’d want to flow test after any porting job to make sure all are the same, for a street motor, close enough is usually good.
I have been told to skip exhaust ports as the gain is minimal. I do plan on doing the intake ports because they are Siamesed and the junction requires work to smooth out air flow. But I need to get a good tool first. I did the combustion chamber with A POS HF $9.99 Dremel set
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Old Yesterday, 03:23 PM   #50
Tom Renda
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LiquidSilver View Post
Are you sure about that?
.020 inches or .020 mm?
That seems to be alot if in inches.
Was that crank already machined for undersized bearings?
If you have the old bearings, they should have a .020 US marking to indicate that. If you don't have the old bearings, measure the rod and main bearing bores. You want to make sure there was no line boring of the block or rods that required oversized bearings.

.020 millimeters would of course be less than .001 inch.
I will check - I though .010 .020 and .030 inches were the standard oversizes.

(After all, this started life as a old tractor motor.)
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93 FZR600 (Rescue Adoption - recovering in garage)
87 ZG1000 Concours
84 FJ1100
84 Laverda RGS1000
82 Moto Guzzi LeMans 850 Mark III
81 Honda CB900f
75 Norton Commando 850
75 Triumph Trident T160
74 Benelli 650 Tornado
71 BSA Lightning 650
71 Honda SL175
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Old Yesterday, 07:26 PM   #51
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They are the standard oversizes(technically undersizes) but they become those sizes from the crankshaft being ground down, not wear. You used to be able to buy rod bearings for some motors in .001 or .002 undersized.
Undersize refers to the journal dimensions. Oversize refers to the OD of the bearing insert itself.
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Old Yesterday, 07:33 PM   #52
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As an example this would be a .25 mm undersized bearing. IOW crank ground down .25mm or about .010.
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