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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Parts & Accessories > Gen 1 Parts & Accessories

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Old 01-08-2009, 02:54 PM   #181
CrazyJoe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeFFZ1 View Post
Crazy,
Overall length is about 2.125". Hole to hole is roughly 1.3125".
Jeff
That is what mine measures --- therefore I must already have the R1 shifter.

THANKS.
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:18 PM   #182
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Thanks CrazyJoe...to the R1 forums I go!
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:31 PM   #183
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wow... that puppy is $40....

here's the Part Number : 5JJ-18112-00-00

put it into google and you can easily find a bunch of places selling them.
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Old 01-08-2009, 03:58 PM   #184
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Crazy Joe,

I haven't had the FZ for a couple years. It got totalled when I got run off the road in Arkansas. Then jimmydean had it and got it back in shape and it is now on to the third owner.

see my avatar

Here is the present ride.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg R-1 a.jpg (85.5 KB, 512 views)
File Type: jpg R-1 b.jpg (45.6 KB, 511 views)
File Type: jpg R-1 c.jpg (60.4 KB, 511 views)
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Old 01-08-2009, 04:03 PM   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post


Crazy Joe,

I haven't had the FZ for a couple years. It got totalled when I got run off the road in Arkansas. Then jimmydean had it and got it back in shape and it is now on to the third owner.

see my avatar

Here is the present ride.
Awesome -- you're too old to ride an R1 --- hehehehehe It was hard to tell in the Avatar so I didn't notice.
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Old 01-10-2009, 04:35 PM   #186
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raven,

what brand mirror are those on your bike? would they fit the fizzy?
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:40 PM   #187
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shift shaft no clearance at all, missing gears with new mod?

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Originally Posted by RavenRider View Post
You need the 2000 - 2001 shift arm. The other will be too short unless you can make a bent shaft to work.
I just tried this, orderd the 2001 shift arm, got the part number off of here and it just too short. So whyd do I need to bend the shift shaft. I thought if its the right part i would not have to bend anything, what is the dealio? Any recommendations to now. I have pictures to share if this helps.

First picture is of before changing shifter arm


second picture is showing size of two shifter arms


third pictures is of with new shorter shift arm and as you can see no clearance though the frame.

Now what do I do? How do I bend this shaft with out breaking it?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg shifter 001 (Medium).jpg (78.4 KB, 441 views)
File Type: jpg shifter 007 (Medium).jpg (137.0 KB, 440 views)
File Type: jpg shifter 010 (Medium).jpg (75.6 KB, 441 views)
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Old 04-03-2009, 04:53 PM   #188
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Some bikes have a problem, some don't, at least that's what I've seen. Some people bend, some people grind, I actually put an extra one in a lathe. You might try rotating the arm a few splines each direction to see if that buys you anything.
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Old 04-03-2009, 07:48 PM   #189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotfz1 View Post
Some bikes have a problem, some don't, at least that's what I've seen. Some people bend, some people grind, I actually put an extra one in a lathe. You might try rotating the arm a few splines each direction to see if that buys you anything.
I actually tried that and forgot to mention it. It did not bye me anything, just made it worse. Looke like the ol' bend it over the knee till it clears the frame.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:17 PM   #190
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Most all of us had to bend the rod just a touch to get it to clear.

Some took a small grinding stone to the frame just at the lip to get it to clear, then painted it so it wouldn't rust.

Either way is an easy fix.

The shifting will be well worth the effort.
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Old 04-03-2009, 08:38 PM   #191
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Did you line up the slot in the shift arm where the bolt goes through it with the hash mark on the shaft? If so, then you're ready to bend. Mark the shaft where it touches the edge of the channel (your last pic above) and bend it so the mark is the middle of the bend. A very slight bend, probably a 1/4 inch or less. That is, when you lay it on a flat surface and rotate it so the bend is up, there is a gap of about 1/4 inch from the surface to the shaft and it is where you made the mark.

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Old 04-03-2009, 09:15 PM   #192
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shifter arm

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Originally Posted by jpgrfan View Post
Did you line up the slot in the shift arm where the bolt goes through it with the hash mark on the shaft? If so, then you're ready to bend. Mark the shaft where it touches the edge of the channel (your last pic above) and bend it so the mark is the middle of the bend. A very slight bend, probably a 1/4 inch or less. That is, when you lay it on a flat surface and rotate it so the bend is up, there is a gap of about 1/4 inch from the surface to the shaft and it is where you made the mark.

i will try that in the morning. Looks like a gave up to easy. I just worry about bending a perfectly good part. A team of engineer came up with the old shifter and rod and just don't make sense to bend it. I guess I don't like it and could aways get a new rod and go back to the way it was.
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Old 04-04-2009, 12:27 AM   #193
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If you don't like it, I'll personally buy the parts from you. Rod arm and all.

No worries, I have a home for them.LOL.
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Old 04-04-2009, 10:46 PM   #194
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i decided to bend the rod to get it to eliminate the rub. doesnt take much of a bend to fix the problem.

you will like the difference!
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Old 04-05-2009, 10:00 PM   #195
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Another Shift Arm improvement Approach

As an alternative approach, I took the FZ1 shift arm and shortened it by 7mm--the R1 shift arm is about 11mm shorter, so vs the base FZ1, you get about 2/3 of the travel reduction that the R1 shift arm would give you.
Why do it?
1) already have the shift arm
2) while shift efforts increase, they don't increase as much as the R1 shift arm. This makes neutral a little easier to find.
3) The shift rod does not have to be bent--there is about 1mm of clearance left to the square tube.

However, it requires that you have access to someone that can MIG weld.

Pictures are here

http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57625

Last edited by eskort; 04-05-2009 at 10:11 PM. Reason: Add pix
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:33 AM   #196
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Interesting - not saying anything bad at all but,,

Picked up a used FZ1 that the owner (unknown to me) did this mod. I ordered the R1 shift arm and during the install noticed the "chopped" one, took it off and found it to be just a tad shorter than the R1 - appears to have been lined up well so was going to put it back and sell the one I bought but something told me to try it out.

The factory R1 shift arm works twice as good, I thought for sure I saved a few bucks and was just being picky and would re-install the cut arm and sell the R1 arm here but not a chance.

Put 700 miles Tues. and Wed. on the new arm with a previous 1Kish on the old one.

Perhaps there is an angle off somewhere or it was too tight or dry (did not seem dry but oiled it up just the same)?

Either way not selling the one that has been modified either as it does not come close to the factory - yours does look like MUCH better craftsmanship compared to the cut arm I took off so just keep in mind if ya try this on your own try to get it as close to the R1 arm as possible and watch your angles etc.

Great Mod - just snaps into gear and netural is not a problem at all - just a little less required from the boot to hit it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by eskort View Post
As an alternative approach, I took the FZ1 shift arm and shortened it by 7mm--the R1 shift arm is about 11mm shorter, so vs the base FZ1, you get about 2/3 of the travel reduction that the R1 shift arm would give you.
Why do it?
1) already have the shift arm
2) while shift efforts increase, they don't increase as much as the R1 shift arm. This makes neutral a little easier to find.
3) The shift rod does not have to be bent--there is about 1mm of clearance left to the square tube.

However, it requires that you have access to someone that can MIG weld.

Pictures are here

http://yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57625
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:05 PM   #197
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To ensure I got the "offset" correct, I built a little fixture-- a piece of wood with a step cut into it. I positioned the cut shifter by putting a screw in each end hole which ensured that the holes were parallel as well as the bolting surfaces. Of course the wood burned when welding but it did hold it in alignment. If one hole is twisted, I assume this would reduce the effectiveness of the shifter.
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Old 12-08-2009, 07:23 PM   #198
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Very interesting mod....
now is to find the shift arm hopefully.

Btw it seem it is not really a plug & play item.
bending does not sound good to me.....
hmm....
Seem to me can't have the best of both world....
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Old 12-08-2009, 08:45 PM   #199
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stwb1981 View Post
Very interesting mod....
now is to find the shift arm hopefully.

Btw it seem it is not really a plug & play item.
bending does not sound good to me.....
hmm....
Seem to me can't have the best of both world....
The bending is trivial.
The mod is superior.

If you just can't do the bend part, you could follow eskorts mod of the stock arm. (see his last few posts, above)


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Old 12-11-2009, 12:05 AM   #200
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I will try give it a shot provided i found a cheap deal on the R1 shift arm over my side....
Cheers!!!
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