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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Parts & Accessories > Gen 1 Parts & Accessories

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Old 11-20-2004, 01:56 PM   #101
EFZEDONE
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Quote:
Originally posted by R1FSR
thanks for the help guys
ive managed to find said R1 arm ...ill have a play today
Any word yet? I have the Gilles rearsets and am waiting for your reply.
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Old 12-04-2004, 12:04 AM   #102
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There's abundant stock for the shift arm in Singapore's Yammy dealers! Price is S$39.95.

Just got one for me self and gonna fix the thang this weekend.
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Old 12-04-2004, 06:04 AM   #103
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Quote:
Originally posted by F30
Just got one for me self and gonna fix the thang this weekend.
Is that Singapore Tennessee?
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Old 12-05-2004, 05:16 PM   #104
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Just mounted mine and took a spin around the block. What a great mod. Thanks.
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Old 12-05-2004, 07:15 PM   #105
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Quote:
Originally posted by FUP
Is that Singapore Tennessee?
Is there such a place to begin with? Anybody?

No man; I located wayyyy out in asia, South of Malaysia, near the equator.

Fix the mod; noticable difference during my ride to work. Now looking forward to the weekend ride up country...
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Old 12-08-2004, 04:01 PM   #106
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Thumbs up

Whoever came up with this mod deserves the Nobel prize!!!! The R1 Shift arm makes an incredible difference.

The only problem is the shift arm. Way back in the thread, Earache was talking about making a rod with a bend to account for the length reduction of the R1 shift arm. The bend would eliminate the need to bend the stock or worse yet grind.

I searched out Earache and he is making up a batch of shift arms that look like the diagram below.



He is going to make a 10-15 in polished aluminum for $10.00 each. If you want one, email him at EBLATTERT@cs.com.

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Last edited by Miller2149; 12-08-2004 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 12-08-2004, 04:25 PM   #107
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Here is the diagram!

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Old 12-08-2004, 04:58 PM   #108
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Problem is with a bent or offset shaft you wont be able to turn the rod to adjust the foot lever.

I have a solution and will try to get the diagram to show you.
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Old 12-08-2004, 05:12 PM   #109
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Old 12-08-2004, 06:17 PM   #110
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Question R1 shift arm

Hey Guys,

Just my 2c worth from over the pond but is it really necessary to go to all this trouble with the shift rod - what is so terrible about filing a small amount from the top of the sqaure hole in the frame and using the stock rod? Surely a little rust-inhibiting paint after filing it down will do the job?

I haven't yet done the mod but my R1 arm is on order and I am considering how to deal with the clearance issue.

Please let me know if there's a flaw in my thinking otherwise I'll be powering up the Dremel!

Jack
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Old 12-08-2004, 06:37 PM   #111
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I say, go for it, you don't need to file away much to get enough clearance. I just bent the shift rod to get enough clearance and I can still rotate it to change the position of the shift pedal.
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Old 12-08-2004, 07:15 PM   #112
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Call me a purist or what you will, but if I was racing the FZ, I would not want anything scrubbing, grinding or bent.

FastEddie - To your point, I wonder if they make an offset Heim joint. All you need is 3-4mm and all contact is eliminated. I'll check it out and repost. Might even be cheaper than the shift rod!

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Old 12-08-2004, 07:33 PM   #113
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Got my R1 arm from my local dealer today, ($23.00), and will be installing it soon. If there is a clearance problem the hole in the frame will be modified. The path from the shifter to the transmission arm needs to be a straight path, no bent shaft or offset joint.
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Old 12-08-2004, 08:47 PM   #114
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Quote:
Originally posted by FUP
Got my R1 arm from my local dealer today, ($23.00), and will be installing it soon. If there is a clearance problem the hole in the frame will be modified. The path from the shifter to the transmission arm needs to be a straight path, no bent shaft or offset joint.
It does not have to be bent into a pretzel or anything, just a slight bend is enough. Why **** with the frame when you can do an easily reversible bend if you ask me.
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Old 12-08-2004, 10:31 PM   #115
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1. Measure the area on the rod contacting the frame.
(Mine was about 20mm)

2. File away the rod area contacting the frame.
(I filed away approx 2mm all round; you might like to machine away this area if you can get your hands on a lathe; more even and better finishing).

Simple? (I took it really easy - about 30minutes work)
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Old 12-09-2004, 12:30 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally posted by FUP
Got my R1 arm from my local dealer today, ($23.00), and will be installing it soon. If there is a clearance problem the hole in the frame will be modified. The path from the shifter to the transmission arm needs to be a straight path, no bent shaft or offset joint.
Why would the rod need to be straight? I've seen setups before with offset helm joints heck the foot lever is a 90 deg angle. All I'm saying is the give the helm joint a little bend and I think you can clear the frame. Like I said the pivot points do not change the amount of movement needed even if you went straight down from the arm 1" then straight back to the shift rod. It's simple geometry. As long as the arm is shorter between the piviot point's the throw will be less.
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Old 12-09-2004, 12:52 AM   #117
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Grinding the frame is ridiculous. Nothing screams "ALLEY MECHANIC" more than that!
I'd definitely work with the linkage itself, although I'm not too sure about the bending deal.
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Old 12-09-2004, 12:46 PM   #118
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Boy - I got things stirred up didn't I ?
It just so happens I have a lathe in my garage and will turn down that area to clear the frame, (thank F30), and if anyone wants to send me there shift rods I'll do them too.
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Old 12-09-2004, 04:27 PM   #119
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There is definetly not a shortage of opinions on this board! Toss in a little alcohol and the Deals Gap rally must be a real hoot! Can't wait!

I'm going the "Z" rod solution. I have the locknuts on the Heim joint to let me know where the right positioning is and once its setup I'll leave it that way!

When its done I post some pic's and if anybody wants to do the same, Eric's email is above......if not " to each his own!"

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Old 12-09-2004, 06:51 PM   #120
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I have extra Heim joints as well and can bend the shaft of one a bit. I think the shaft on my Heim's is only .75" long, but I can get some longer ones and give them a bend.

the joint's ain;t all that cheap - $5 or $6 each. Not cheap, but not ecxpensive considering what they'll do.

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