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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Service & Maintenance > Gen 1 Service & Maintenance

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Old 01-26-2019, 01:32 PM   #1
firefly
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Rear sprocket bolt stud stripped

One stud and nut got stripped, how do I remove the stud to install a new one?
Thanks
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Old 01-26-2019, 02:08 PM   #2
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Any chance you can provide a picture?

The nut is less worrisome. Can probably put a pair of vice grips on it and be good to go. If it stripped on the bolt side, a little more of an issue but not insurmountable.

Best,
Ron
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Old 01-26-2019, 02:38 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdcusmc View Post
Any chance you can provide a picture?

The nut is less worrisome. Can probably put a pair of vice grips on it and be good to go. If it stripped on the bolt side, a little more of an issue but not insurmountable.

Best,
Ron
I already put the sprocket, 4 bolts are torqued to correct value, the fifth both stud and nut are stripped, sorry no photos, I know the stud is the more difficult part to take out.
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Old 01-26-2019, 02:46 PM   #4
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I think the stud would have reverse thread vs the nut, should I try a vice grip to get it out?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg sprocket stud.JPG (22.8 KB, 85 views)
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Old 01-26-2019, 02:53 PM   #5
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Can you get another nut on the end of the threads?? If yes, getting this out is relatively easy. Tighten the new nut against the new one and then use a wrench on turn it out.

You can also use a Dremel and cut a groove in the bolt and turn it out with a screwdriver.

Best,
Ron
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Old 01-26-2019, 02:59 PM   #6
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Just went down and checked a spare hub I had. The studs are righty tighty (normal not reversed) going into the hub.

Should come out easily with vise grips.
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:02 PM   #7
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More of a issue is why it snapped. It’s cold out, it’d probably help you to take it back apart and heat the area where the stud goes in. More often than not it’ll screw right out with heat, if not, pb blaster is your friend.

If that doesn’t work, weld a nut to the stud and remove that way.
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:11 PM   #8
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It did not snap, it stripped, not sure why.
The nut is out, its the stud that I want to take out, is it normal thread direction or reverse?
I'll have to ride the bike until I get a new set of bolts and a few studs in case it happens again. I was putting a 49T instead of the 47T I have now, really love how the bike feels & don't really care about to top speed, an occasional 100 MPH is my max riding speed.

I would say the bigger rear sprocket is an excellent lane splitting/ filtering mod, I kept the front stock 16 T, these pesky Tesla's love to take off fast to prove they are faster than bike's
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:14 PM   #9
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Lots of good advice above.

Not going to be much help getting the stud out, but the torque value in the manual is wrong. I think it calls for 58 ft lbs, if I recall correctly.

I think the consensus is about 30-35 ft lbs should work.

Please someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Jim

PS.you probably knew this already. Posted for future reference.

Last edited by jimco; 01-26-2019 at 03:16 PM. Reason: add PS
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Old 01-26-2019, 03:24 PM   #10
isleoman
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[quote=firefly;2777720] is it normal thread direction or reverse?
/QUOTE]

Answers still the same normal thread direction going into the hub.

If you take the wheel off you can pull the hub out by hand and put thread penetrant on the bolt from the other side. I'd try vise grips first.
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:21 PM   #11
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Apply some heat, give it a few taps, and it should come out.

Manual says 50 ft lbs which, as stated, is way too much - that's probably why it stripped.
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:35 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyW View Post
Apply some heat, give it a few taps, and it should come out.

Manual says 50 ft lbs which, as stated, is way too much - that's probably why it stripped.
I torqued to 50 ft lbs 4 did OK the 5th stripped.
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Old 01-26-2019, 04:39 PM   #13
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As said, apply heat. Even a hair dryer will help if you don't have a torch or a real heat gun. Apply heat to the hub. The stud will still get hot, too, but focus on the hub. Use a vice grip to turn the stud out.

Good luck.

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Old 01-26-2019, 04:49 PM   #14
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Thanks everyone for the help
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Old 01-26-2019, 05:01 PM   #15
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If none of these work, a used hub isn't super expensive: https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-YAMAHA...Ue3S:rk:2:pf:0
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefly View Post
I torqued to 50 ft lbs 4 did OK the 5th stripped.
If you applied 50 ft-lbs to those sprocket studs/nuts, then I would replace all of them because they have been over-stressed.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:31 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefly View Post
I think the stud would have reverse thread vs the nut,..
It can't have reverse thread; otherwise, the stud would back out of the hub when you attempted to tighten the nut.
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:00 AM   #18
firefly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arkie6 View Post
If you applied 50 ft-lbs to those sprocket studs/nuts, then I would replace all of them because they have been over-stressed.
So what is the correct torque for these studs/ nuts? I will order a new set of both.
I realized it can't be reverse thread,
Thanks for your input
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:02 AM   #19
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Jiimco is right. Most people here are using 30-35 ft lbs. I am after I had the same thing happen to me a few years ago. No problems since.

Best,
Ron
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Old 01-27-2019, 09:13 AM   #20
Dean Dinnetz
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I have used 38 pounds feet of torque, for years on those studs/nuts. It would appear, my rear sprockets have never come off.

I also use 85 pounds feet of torque, on the rear axle nut, instead of 108 pounds of torque listed in the workshop manual. Same thing. Rear wheels seem to stay on both of my gen.1, FZ1's.

Dean
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