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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering > Gen 1 Tires, Brakes, Suspension & Steering

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Old 05-09-2019, 01:01 PM   #21
firefly
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theunderfighter View Post
This was all about 5 years ago I think, so not the freshest in my memory. It was also my first time working with bearings or steering heads, but it was part of the R1 front-end swap process. I rented a bearing install/removal kit from Auto-Zone, but a primary tool in the process was a massive flat-head screwdriver.
The upper I don't recall being too difficult to come off, maybe I had a better angle or more lip. I struggled a bit getting it seated properly, but got there eventually. I did put the new races in the freezer overnight, and torched the steering head before install. I remember that.
The lower was just a nightmare... Definitely a lack of a lip, lack of any good leverage point. I remember thinking SO MANY times throughout the process, "I have to be doing something wrong, there HAS to be another way...". I was using torches on the steering head to heat it, whatever I could. I think I was mostly using the long flat-head to get the job done. I can't remember what finally got it, or if it was just doing that over and over.

I am trying to get all I need for the job to get it done in a few hrs, I will also change the forks oil while I have them out,I found a place to get dry ice, will purchase a 9 inch punch and some chisels from harbor freight.
my steering feels like a balance nob on a stereo, it has a notch exactly at 12 O'clock position real bad.
I hope the steering stem did not get damaged.

Thanks for your feedback
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Old 05-12-2019, 02:46 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefly View Post
What made the lower bearing race so hard to remove? not enough lip to tap on? any trick to make it easier to come off? was the upper race easier to remove or just as difficult? how did you finally remove the race? did you use a drift or a flat head screwdriver?

Thanks
The head stock opening is tapered inward above the lower bearing which limits access from above with a punch. If it was a uniform diameter the whole length it would be easy.

They sell an after market three way (split) punch for this purpose but it's not very rugged. I was lucky to get one use out of it. The dremmel is the way to go.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:23 AM   #23
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+1 on the dremel.
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Old 05-13-2019, 07:48 AM   #24
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OK guys, I removed the steering stem and inspected the bearings and races, they were well greased, I found no wear on the bearings or races, that's weird because I had a notch feeling at 12 O'clock position, I guess the steering head nuts became tight causing this.
so I cleaned and greased & will be reinstalling them back today, I also changed the forks oil, brake pads & fluid. such a major maintenance project that was way over due at 66K

Note: the lower races have two notches above them to use a punch and remove them, I am not sure why others say it is difficult, my bike is a 2004, I think the most difficult is removing the lower bearing race from the steering stem, I see no gap to use a chisel without damaging the lower triple.
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Old 05-13-2019, 12:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by firefly View Post

Note: the lower races have two notches above them to use a punch and remove them, I am not sure why others say it is difficult, my bike is a 2004, I think the most difficult is removing the lower bearing race from the steering stem, I see no gap to use a chisel without damaging the lower triple.
Let us know how it goes if you try to remove it ;) I'm definitely aware of the notches, they were of little to no help though haha.

With the spanner nuts and everything greased and tightened, did your steering clear up??
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Old 05-13-2019, 02:24 PM   #26
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Just came from a test ride, steering feels good but I think I need to tighten the spanner nuts a little more, forks feel good after oil change, new brake pads need break in.
I think the steering nuts tightened up and caused this notching.
I am sure happy I didn't have to replace the bearings & deal with race removal and pressing the lower bearing in for now.
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Old 05-13-2019, 11:09 PM   #27
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When I redid the front-end, the steering was notchy until I tightened the steering nuts again, and got them right. So, I would suspect you're in the clear for now!
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Old 05-14-2019, 03:38 PM   #28
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Just because there was still grease doesn’t mean that the viscosity of the grease was still the same. Luckily you caught it before it broke down further.

Glad it worked out with fresh grease and tightening. Now do your swing arm!
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Old 05-14-2019, 05:09 PM   #29
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Well I'll be the one to say it, but if there was a notch as pronounced as you stated ("it has a notch exactly at 12 O'clock position real bad.") then you have wear, and adding fresh grease is simply masking the problem. A dry bearing will operate perfectly for a while (swingarm pivot bearings on the Gen II are good examples). You might have moved the parts around enough to move the worn surfaces to no longer line up to where it's as noticeable. At least you have the parts for when you have to pull it apart again.
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Old 05-14-2019, 06:22 PM   #30
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I think I know now what caused the steering nut to tighten up, coming from a vmax the steering head & noodle frame cause instability so many owners replaced the rubber washer between the spanner nuts with a solid aluminum washer so I did that to the Fz, it worked fine for a while but started gradually getting tighter, I disassembled the steering head and looked closely at the bearings and the races but found no wear so I cleaned them, put a good amount of grease and put the rubber washer back between the spanner nuts. I do have an allballs set but I think the stock bearings are better made so when time comes I'll get the OEM bearings.

That Fz is a real work horse, I am kinda sloppy doing maintenance due to work and lack of space to work on the bike but I finally manged to do the steering head, change the forks oil, change the brake pads/ brake fluid. I also tried and failed to replace the tires myself so I took them to a shop to replace and balance them after I got all the tools needed, I don't think I'll attempt tire change again now I have a bead beaker and a set of tire irons as paper wts.
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Old 05-15-2019, 05:38 AM   #31
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Don't give up on the tire changing, you need to push through the initial learning curve, at which point you'll develop you're own personal technique. Basically, you'll learn how to "hold your mouth right", then realize it is completely doable with the basic tools you have.

Granted, some tires are easier and some can be quite the bitch, due to differences in sidewall compliance. The Michelin PR's and PP's are probably some of the easiest to mount/demount. The T30 rear I tried was signifcantly more difficult, but still doable.
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Old 05-18-2019, 03:55 PM   #32
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Well I'll be the one to say it, but if there was a notch as pronounced as you stated ("it has a notch exactly at 12 O'clock position real bad.") then you have wear, and adding fresh grease is simply masking the problem. A dry bearing will operate perfectly for a while (swingarm pivot bearings on the Gen II are good examples). You might have moved the parts around enough to move the worn surfaces to no longer line up to where it's as noticeable. At least you have the parts for when you have to pull it apart again.
You are right, the notch came back, not as bad but its back so I'll have to replace the bearings, its really hard to see the deformation of each ball bearing.
now i have to figure out how to press in the lower bearing, any ideas?
Thanks
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Old 05-18-2019, 04:43 PM   #33
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Heat the bearing in the oven. Put your steering stem in the freezer over night. It will fall on.
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Old 05-20-2019, 03:29 PM   #34
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So now I have to replace the steering bearings I'll use the allballs kit, it comes with dust seals but I feel I can use the lower stock bearing dust seal, will that work or I need to use the seals that came with the allballs bearings?

Thanks
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Old 05-20-2019, 06:54 PM   #35
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Not even sure why that would be a question - how hard is it to change the seals?
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Old 05-20-2019, 07:35 PM   #36
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Not even sure why that would be a question - how hard is it to change the seals?

the allball seal on the lower bearings goes first then the bearing, the stock seal can be installed after pressing the bearing & seals the bottom of the frame better
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Old 05-20-2019, 09:04 PM   #37
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No idea then. It's been a few years since I did mine, but I don't recall there being any issue or question on this.
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Old Yesterday, 04:23 AM   #38
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All balls bearings are hit or miss with quality... usually a miss, just use OEM.
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