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Go Back   FZ1OA Message Board > FZ1 & Fazer Owners Association > FZ1 Problems & Issues > Gen 1 Problems & Issues

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Old 09-15-2019, 06:12 PM   #1
flasher
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Coolant leak on top of cylinder head

As I've posted before, just now getting the bike running again after a long layoff. So far, been running awesome... Until I noticed this :

IMG_3396 (3).jpg

Any chance I would be lucky enough that I could pull the hose clamp, clean it up and retighten? Rusted pipe with hole? Leaking o-ring? No sign of coolant in the oil so far. Ideas? If I need to replace the hard pipe, what all does that entail? I haven't been able to find a post that shows this exact problem yet. Thanks y'all.
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Old 09-15-2019, 06:51 PM   #2
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Can't see any downside to taking hose off and cleaning it up. I would think that's all it should take.
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Old 09-16-2019, 06:55 AM   #3
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Give it a shot. Maybe plan on doing hoses in Jan/Feb? They are getting a wee bit old, I'm sure.
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Old 09-16-2019, 08:35 PM   #4
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Meh. I just did a valve clearance check on my '03 and the coolant hoses were fine. Funny thing though, silly me forgot to fully tighten the clamps for those hoses, so guess what happened? Coolant leak! LOL!
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Old 09-24-2019, 08:59 PM   #5
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Think I'm hosed

So I investigate a bit more. This is what I found:

IMG_6536.jpeg

IMG_6542.jpeg

Its not the hose, meaning I think I'm hosed. The leak is coming at the base of the metal pipe as it enters the engine head. The second pic is a tiny current forming from the continual leak as coolant pools from a pinhole leak. Is there any way this pipe can be replaced without removing the whole engine and doing a full tear down? Looking at the parts diagram, I'm not so sure... Anyone have any experience with this?
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:50 PM   #6
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No big deal. Under the parts breakdown for the water pump, you will find both pipes and the o rings that seal them. Never had mine out but I imagine you can remove the bolt in each pipe and pull them out. Would probably soak those bolts in a good penetrating oil for a day or so first, sure wouldn't want to break them off or round the heads.

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Old 09-24-2019, 09:55 PM   #7
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Thanks, I do see them. Does the bike have to be torn down to the water pump to change it? Do I have to worry about o-rings falling into the engine pan when I remove them? Looks like it is held in by a single screw... Would be nice if I don't have to pull the pan...
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Old 09-24-2019, 09:59 PM   #8
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No, that's just the drawing where they're located.
Should be a simple process if-----those bolts come out easily.
Doubt the o rings will be a problem, can probably reach in there and pull them out or there may be a grove in the pipe they fit in.
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:00 PM   #9
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Thanks, will order a new pipe and see where this gets me!
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:11 PM   #10
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Thanks, will order a new pipe and see where this gets me!
Sure you want just one? I believe I'd get the o rings too.
Flush it and change the coolant while you're at it.
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:24 PM   #11
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I'd clean it up well before I started on it too. You don't want crap falling in when you can easily remove the crap before you start.
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:24 PM   #12
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The other pipe is in good condition comparatively speaking. Not totally sure why that particular pipe got so corroded. Definitely ordering the o-rings and new screw as well!
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Old 09-24-2019, 11:28 PM   #13
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Yea, unless you're gonna change all of them, there's not much point in doing any more than the one that's leaking.
All of them have likely thinned some but the one that's leaking probably had a really thin spot.
Get some fresh coolant in it and hopefully, you can stop or slow down the rusting process.
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:51 AM   #14
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I'd fill that spot up with some Automatic transmission fluid for a few days, or if it won't hold oil then soak up some paper towels with atf to try to melt some of the rust that is all over the bolt.
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Old 09-25-2019, 07:35 AM   #15
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I'd fill that spot up with some Automatic transmission fluid for a few days, or if it won't hold oil then soak up some paper towels with atf to try to melt some of the rust that is all over the bolt.
Good point. I keep a small glass bottle with a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. The acetone really helps the ATF wick into small spaces. It should only be used where it will come into contact with metal parts, as acetone will melt plastic and some rubber parts. In this case, the o-ring will get replaced anyway.
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