by: VWSandman

I went to my local Yamaha dealer to order the bulb holders for the running lights. The part number I got from Sportbike Guy was obsolete. I explained what I was trying to do and he said that the 2003 R1's come with a running light in the corner! We looked up the the part numbers on the computer. The part number is 5PW-84312-00-00 and the bulbs are 45V-84347-00-00 (12v-5W) (194's?) The bulbs are clear, I got them just to see what style the were as they wouldn't let me tear into the brand new 2003 R1 on the floor to further investigate. I looked at the R1 forum and from what I can tell the are standard issue 194 bulbs so we can put in the 194NA's (amber) like a lot of the R1 guys are doing and wire them into the running lights/ turn signals as shown on numerous web sites. I did manage to get a look at the bulb holder on the R1 and it looks to be a quality factory piece....should just be a matter of drilling the right size hole in the Pod and wire it up...best part is the price is really nice...both bulb holders were only $15.58.

As you can see I lucked out and found some replacement 194 LED bulbs at my local Auto Zone for $10.50. They work really well and are SUPER bright. The company that makes these bulbs is called JamStrait. Now all I have to do is wire it all up and drill the two holes in the headlight for the R1 running lights. Looks like from my calipers that it will need to be a 9/16" (14mm) diameter hole for the bulb holder.

First of all you need to remove your fairing and headlight. You could do this mod with everything in place, but taking the stuff off is so easy, why risk it? Start off by using a rotary tool to remove the moulding bump on the back side of the headlights where the new bulb holders will go. This will allow you to drill a hole in that spot easier.

Then drill a 9/16" diameter hole in each spot. I used a unibit. You can get these from Sears. While not cheap, with proper care they last a long time, and drill a real nice round hole. Go real slow and not use much pressure. Take your time.

Here is what the harness and relays look like all wired up. The wiring is straight forward. Running light (blue/red) to #30, ground (black) to #86, Led lights wired to the NC contact #87a, and the turn signals (green and brown respectively) wired to #85. This way when the lights are on the new lights act like running lights, and alternately flash with the turn signals.

Here is what the bulb holder look like installed in the headlight.

This is where I mounted the two relays. A perfect spot is right behind the instrument cluster. There is even a hole there to mount them to. I used an M6x1.0 panhead screw and nut to mount the relays to this spot.

Here is how I routed the wires. I also added some extra foam rubber around the stock wiring harness as it was already wearing through the black paint on the headlight cluster. Looks like Yamaha should have made this foam go higher up.

Here is what the running lights look like:

And this is a shot of the turn signals:

The headlight mod can be done for under $50 and looks like it came from Yamaha that way.

VWSandman's Headlight Pod Mod made more affordable

(and how to spend the savings)

By Eskort

I came across Rabeet's and then VW Sandman's renditions of the headlamp pod mod and being the engineer that I am, I had to put my own spin on it. Since VWSandman and Rabeet had done such an excellent job of the base design the only thing left to do is to cost reduce so it's more affordable for all. So here's my approach:

  1. Follow all the mechanically-related advice on VWSandman's writeup.

  2. Purchase these 194 bulb substitutes, they cost $4/pair (+shipping) vs. $10.50 (+travel time) and have much increased light output, 51,000 lumens vs. 32,000 lumens. The bulb is a T13 Wedge Base LED bulb available here. It should be noted that LED's are not supposed to be run in the same compartment as incandescent headlamp bulbs; the heat can reduce the life. Based on this, I would not recommend using the LED's in a running light function, but as a turn indicator with its lighter duty cycle, it should be OK.

  3. Delete the relays in the VWSandman circuit for $10-15 savings, these are not required as a LED bulb will pull less than 0.05 amps compared with a turn indicator incandescent bulb at 2 amps. Wire the LED bulbs using the recommended Yamaha socket with a Y-connection to the brown (left bulb) and green (right bulb) and to the black wire on both (ground). Please remember that LED's have polarity so if the bulb does not work, try turning it 180 degrees in the socket and it should (assuming nothing else is wrong). Easiest time to check this is prior to installation in the headlamp pod--- place the LED/connector leads (shown below) across the battery (black to black, green or brown to red) and ensure it lights.

    LED in Yamaha socket with Y-connections ready for installation. For improved reliability, I always solder crimped bullet connections so wires do not pull out. Wire can be 20-22 gage stranded as currents are low.

  4. Now here is where I spent all that money I saved. Because I do not like the 1981 vintage Yamaha turn-indicators-on-a-stalk, I also purchased some Lockhart-Phillips flush mount markers at Parts 411 for $17/pair and available here. They are number 122-9974 (Smoke colored, other colors/clear available). They fit very well without modification or damage to the fairing as shown by just screwing down a yoke on the inside.

    I then replaced the dual filament #94 bulb with an amber bayonet 9 LED bulb (type Bay15d/9LED) available here for $7 each. I use these as running lights and turn signals which flash concurrently with the pod lights.

    As the #94 bulbs are used in bike marker lights and are not readily available, there may be a fellow FZ1OA member that would take the #94's off your hands. You can, of course, avoid flasher rate issues by just leaving the #94 bulbs in, but if you're looking to put LED's in the rear, or want to go LED's in the front, there is a flasher solution for that (see below.)

    Above is the final wire harness for the LP marker lights, the red goes to turn signal wire (green or brown), the black with white stripe goes to ground (black), and the black wire goes to the running light (blue with red stripe).

A contribution by 10Zero: If anyone is looking for an easy fix to the signal flasher problems after installing LED's, or a rear integrator, check here.

It's a no load pure IC flasher, 100% plug and play. It cures all the woes of fast flashing, no flashing, etc. Not the fanciest of units, set at the standard DOT 80 flashes per minute. But it's small, plug and play, and fixes those irritating flasher issues.